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Practicing Your Draw Fu Forms – Forms Are Like Sentences

February 18, 2015 in Intermediate, Lvl 1

Practicing Your Draw Fu Forms

Practicing your draw fu forms - forms are like sentences

You can draw cartoons but there's something missing.  They look odd.  Not like the stuff you see in animated cartoons or your favorite comics.

What are you missing? What do you need to do?

You want to start drawing cartoons that look more solid.  Cartoons with "dimension."  Something that compliments your new perspective skills.

If you create three dimensional environments, it would be nice to put three dimensional characters in them.  The problem is, where do you start?

Well, you start here.  Now that you know what you know about lines and flat shapes, it's time to build upon that knowledge to add a new dimension.

Just as you did with those beginner's exercises, here you will need to get comfortable working with three dimensional shapes. This is the stuff you need to know to take your character drawing to the next level.

In the following lesson, you will learn the four basic forms that can be modified to create the basic structure of just about any cartoon.  They can even be used to create naturalistic drawings.

We'll finally get into the stuff you need to know to make your drawing look much more professional.

Let's begin.

Three Dimensional Forms are Like Sentences.

If drawing is like writing, lines are like the A, B, C, and Shapes are like words, then three dimensional forms are like Sentences.

To really be able to communicate in the clearest natural way, you need to learn three dimensional drawing forms.

There are four forms that, in combination, make up all three dimensional drawing:

  • Spheres
  • Cylinders
  • Cubes
  • Wedges

Just about every basic, flat, three dimensional shape can be given dimension to become one of these three forms.  Remember, the illusion of space is just that, an illusion. You're not drawing three dimensional forms, you're drawing flat shapes on a piece of paper.

That doesn't mean you can't trick the eye into thinking it's seeing something more dimensional.  It's best to start thinking about your drawings as a flat graphic design which you add dimension to.  This will make you're drawings more pleasing to the eye in the long run.

Everything you can see and draw can be broken down into these four basic forms.  Although, sometimes they may be a complex combination of the forms. This is why it's so important to learn to draw them.

Let's take these four basic forms and see how they can be developed from flat graphic shapes:

Spheres - This one is pretty self explanatory, Circles or ellipses can be given dimension and turned into Spheres or modified Spheres. Spheres are very versatile but they can also be tricky to use.

They don't have corners which makes it more difficult to give them direction. You can usually do so by defining the radius of the outer surface of the Sphere.

Traditionally this is done by drawing the diameter across the circumference vertically and horizontally across the Sphere so you can clearly see it's dimension.

Spheres

Cylinders -Squares and modified squares can be made into Cylinders.  This all depends on your intention.

Simply decide which direction the Cylinder is being seen from and add the circumference lines reinforcing the direction. Cylinders can be the most handy form to use in the preliminary drawing process.

They come in handy when you don't want to get too caught up in detail.  They're ideal for drawing organic long forms and are great for defining gesture and rhythm.

Cylinders

Cubes - Cubes and modified Cubes are often created off of squares and rectangles as well.  They can be the most useful of all the forms.

Cubes are the easiest forms to get the illusion of dimension with. Because of this, Cubes can also be used to better clarify the perspective of forms that don't have corners, like Sphere modified Sphere and Cylinders.

This can be done by simply drawing a Cube around the corner less form. Whenever you're unsure about the dimension of a soft corner-less form, convert it into a Cube or modified Cube.

The one drawback to cubes is that they are often stiff and inorganic.

Cubes

Wedges - Wedges are odd forms.  They're usually created from both cubes and triangles, depending on the intent.  A wedge is basically a cube, cut in half diagonally  across two of it's corners.

Most often, wedges are found combined with the other forms above creating a complex compound form.  You'd be surprised how handy this form can be.

Wedges

The reason to learn to draw these forms well is so you could later combine them all into complex  compound forms that lead to more organic naturalistic looking drawings.

Examples of Using  These Simple Forms in Action

Let's see what can be done with these basic forms.

In the 1920s, many cartoons where often drawn by using two of the basic forms: spheres and cylinders.  The result was something that looked a lot like this:

1920s style kung fu girl

 

Here's my very rough under drawing so you can see the circles and cylinders I used:

 

1920s style kung fu girl rough

Now a days with more stylized video games, such as Minecraft and Lego video games, we can have more blocky looking cartoon characters. Like this:

Simple form Characters

If you're into drawing environments, you can even use the forms to draw things like bushes and trees out of these basic forms:

simple trees and bushes

Here's my rough under drawing, so you can see the cylinders and circles more clearly:

Simple form Characters rough

As you can see, these forms, at their most basic, can be very versatile.

Your Exercises

Alright, now that you know the importance of these forms, it's time to do some yourself.  Instead of simply drawing spheres, cubes and stuff, I thought it would be more fun to actually be able to have something cool to show for your effort. Let's start:

Drawing Spheres

Spheres are, more often than not, used as the basis for most heads.  So why not start by filling up a page with goofy drawings of cartoon heads?

  • Simply draw a circle or modified circle of some kind.
  • Draw the circumference lines somewhere through the circle, creating a sphere.
  • The XZ axis is your eye line. It's where you will place your eyes.
  • The YZ axis is your guide for the nose and the direction the character is facing.

Just draw dots for the eyes and another sphere for the nose. Play around with the placement of the XZ axis. It doesn't have to be directly in the center. Also, play around with the orientation of the sphere.

Turn it so it you're looking up at it, down at it, seeing it at 3/4,...etc.

Your page of cartoon heads, should look something like this:

Heads exercises

This might be tricky at first. If you're having trouble, start simple.  Don't get fancy. Simply draw a round sphere and place everything in the center.  Slowly make your way to fancier heads as you go.

Most important part of all though, is to have fun.

Drawing Cylinders

Now it's time to add an element.  Let's keep it simple at first.

  • Draw a sphere adding the circumference lines.
  • Then attach a cylinder to the sphere, right underneath it.  To create a neck.
  • For now, make sure to draw through your forms as if they were transparent. Also on the cylinders, draw circumference lines all the way across it so you can see the perspective.

You can draw a variety of head shapes and neck shapes until you feel comfortable.

It should look like this:

Cylinder exersise

Once you're comfortable , you can add another element.

  • Do the first three steps above,
  • Now add another bigger cylinder under the neck cylinder.  This makes a body or torso for your figure.
  • As before, draw through your forms and draw the circumference lines all across your cylinders.
  • Don't be afraid to make it bend.

Vary the shapes and play around.  Get comfortable.

At first you're not going to want to make the cylinders bend, keep it simple and straight.  Once you get the hang of it, start playing around some more.

It should look something like this:

Cylinder exersise 02

If you're comfortable with that, it's time to add the last element. Arms and legs.

  • Do the first six steps above
  • Now, simply add four cylinders attached to the torso for arms and legs.
  • At this point you should be comfortable enough to make the cylinders you add bendy.
  • If you wish, you can add spheres for hands and feet.

Like this:

Cylinder bodies and arms

Congratulations, you can draw spheres and cylinders.

Let's move on...

Drawing Cubes

With cubes we'll do a similar thing as what we did with the spheres.  Modified cubes also end up as heads.  In fact, a lot of what you use spheres and cylinders for can be given corners, squared off a bit and turned into cube in order to understand, their position in space better.

Here's your cube exercise:

  • Simply draw a cube or modified cube of some kind.
  • Draw the circumference lines somewhere through the cube,
  • The XZ axis is your eye line. It's where you will place your eyes.
  • The YZ axis is your guide for the nose and the direction the character is facing.

Just draw dots for the eyes and a sphere or cube for the nose. Play around with the placement of the XZ axis. It doesn't have to be directly in the center. Also, play around with the orientation of the cube.

Turn it so it you're looking up at it, down at it, seeing it at 3/4,...etc.

Your page of cartoon heads, should look something like this:

Block heads

If you have not been practicing your perspective, your cubes will look very off.

If it helps, put a Horizon line and a Vanishing point on the page.  Ideally, you should be able to draw and turn a drawing of a cube in space without them.

See the previous post to see how this is done.

If you're having trouble, start simple.  Don't get fancy. Simple draw a cube facing one direction and place everything in the center.  Slowly make your way to fancier heads as you go.

Once you're comfortable doing this exercise, you can then start replacing the cylinder torsos from the earlier exercise with cubes. Like this:

Cube Torso Character

You can keep the arms and legs as cylinders.  You'll find that doing this actually helps with the cylinder drawing as well.

Drawing Wedges

Finally we get to the wedges. Wedges tend to be sprinkled on a cartoon or drawing.  They rarely take center stage like Spheres, Cylinders and Cubes do.

Here's what I want you to do, simply add Wedges to the cartoons you are already making out of Spheres, Cylinders, and Cubes.

  • Use Wedges for drawing noses.
  • Use Wedges are shoulders,
  • Add Wedge feet on your cartoons.

Here's an example of what I mean:

Characters with wedges

Okay there you have it.

It's important to become comfortable drawing these forms. Hopefully these exercises will make it fun to practice drawing them.

It wouldn't be a good idea to move on without feeling  you've got a handle on them.  From this point on, things get a bit more tricky and knowing  how to draw the forms will help out immensely.

Trouble?

Q: I don't understand. Every time I try to draw these forms they come out all wrong and messed up.  I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. What can I do?

A: If you're having trouble drawing these forms from your imagination, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using real objects as reference when drawing them.

Especially when you're starting out.

You want to draw a cube rotating in space? Find a small box or a Rubik's Cube and draw it.

Need help drawing cylinders? Find a can, a cup or a glass.

The point is, to start.  Get confidence. Get used to the forms.  The more you do the more your muscle memory will start taking over.

Don't be afraid to use reference. This is NOT "cheating." The best artist in the world use reference.

The problem is not UNDERSTANDING, the basic structures your referencing.  And THAT is what this lesson is helping you to do.

Often, when you see them draw something fantastic straight out of their imagination, it's because they've done so much drawing and studying from reality that it's become second nature.

Pro Tip

Observe how things around you can be broken down into the four basic forms.

When sketching complicated things, don't get caught up in surface detail, instead, try to take it all away so what you're left with is the basic form of what you're drawing.

Learning this skill is the key to drawing anything.

Arms are tubes, books are boxes, heads are spheres,..etc.

Practice seeing these things.

Questions?

I can’t help you if you don’t ask.

What’s your burning 3D forms questions?

Is there something you’ve always wanted to know about drawing forms? Ask.

I’ll give you my best answer and, who knows,  probably write a post about it.

Leave any comments and questions in the comments below.

Or better yet, sign up to receive more information via e-mail. You’ll get extra tips and advice.  You can ask me questions that way also.

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Draw Fu Perspective Secrets – The 5 Basic Principles You Should Know.

January 7, 2015 in Intermediate, Lvl 1

Getting Some Perspective

Draw Fu Perspective SecretsYou don't want to learn perspective.  You want to be able to use perspective but you don't want to learn it.

Learning it brings to mind, rulers, math, precision tools and all kinds of things that feel completely and totally uncreative. Well, you wouldn't be wrong.  It can very well be like that.

I know first hand.  I took a drafting class in high school where we had to make these very precise 3D shapes and it stunk. On top of that, I wasn't very good at it.

But never  fear, I'm here to tell you there's hope.

How would you like to learn the minimum amount of perspective knowledge to get by?  There's only a few things you really need to know and they all follow logically from each other.  You don't really need to know everything about perspective when you're drawing cartoons.

Also, when you draw, you have to keep perspective in mind but you don't start off with it right away.

In this lesson, you're going to, not only learn the minimum amount of perspective knowledge you need to know to get by, but I'll even show you how to begin with a drawing only somewhat thinking about perspective, and then find the perspective, in it.

I will also share with you what I think is the most important perspective principle you should know, that will change the way you view perspective.

Here, you will learn how to make your cartoons work in 3D space without having to deal with math.  Although, yes, you might need to take out a ruler.

So if you're ready, let's get to it.

There is No Spoon

Perspective is the art of tricking people into thinking they are seeing a drawing in three dimensional space.

Depth in a drawing is just an illusion.  You're not drawing anything three dimensional, you're merely pretending to do so.  You're just drawing flat graphic shapes on a flat piece of paper but you're making it seem like your drawings have depth.

You don't really need any rulers of fancy perspective tricks to do this.  Depth is as simple to create as putting one large shape in front of a small shape.  Like this:

Overlapping shapes 01

When something is closer to view, it's often bigger. When something is further away, it's often smaller. It causes the smaller shapes to look as if they're further back in space.

And when you do the opposite, and put one larger shape in front of a smaller, it gives the illusion of "scale":

Overlapping shapes 02

By simply overlapping two shapes of different sizes, you can easily create the illusion of depth without the need of any fancy perspective tricks.

Go ahead and try it out. Draw a flat shape and then draw a smaller shape "behind it."  Do the same with two small shape overlapping a big shape.

Congratulation! You've just created the illusion of depth.

Up to this point we've been content with only drawing flat "two dimensional"  looking shapes. But in order to move forward with out cartooning, we need to learn to draw more complex "three dimensional" looking shapes.

In order to better understand how to do this well, we need a basic understanding of those fancy perspective tricks I spoke about earlier. These tricks eventually come in handy when you want to create depth in a slightly more complex way, using more complex shapes.

So let's begin with the basics of perception...

See Water My Friend

The most basic, and most important concept you must learn when working with perspective is the idea of the "Horizon Line."  It's a line you draw horizontally across the drawing that defines where the horizon of the drawing is.

The Horizon Line is basically your point of view, the viewer's eye line or the point of view of the imaginary "camera" that is perceiving the drawing.  The purpose of this line is to define what is above the Horizon Line and what is below it.

The reason you need to know this is so you can more accurately draw three dimensional shapes in space.

The principle is very simple:

  • Anything you are seeing BELOW the Horizon Line, you are looking down at.
  • Anything you are seeing ABOVE the Horizon Line, you are looking up at.

My father, a Background designer on the animated sitcom King of the Hill, once made this very helpful analogy:

Imagine you're standing next to an enormous, glass tank of water that takes up your field of view.  The world inside the tank is flooded up to your eyeballs with water splitting your vision evenly.

The water level is the Horizon Line. The glass of the tank is your picture plane, or drawing surface.

Anything in the water is below the Horizon Line, anything above the water is above the Horizon Line:

Perpective Horizon Line as water example

Yes, this is REALLY basic. But professional artists and amateurs often forget or ignore this simple thing and their work suffers for it.

Actively applying this basic Horizon Line principle will make your drawings more accurate right away.  Even if you're NOT drawing a background or environment.  Understanding this basic Horizon Line principle is essential to drawing solid characters, or people. Cartoony or otherwise.

Case in point.  How's this for irony--here's the header drawing I drew for the Lvl 1 lesson on art supplies:

The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal – Art Supplies

I was never really satisfied with the drawing but I didn't know why. I couldn't put my finger on it.

What I'm going to show you, I discovered, when I wanted to find an example of a drawing I had done where I messed up a drawing because I had not used a Horizon Line and therefore had not followed the principle.  I went looking through some old drawings and although there were many bad drawings, I needed one that highlighted that specific mistake best.

Then I saw the art supplies header drawing and it dawned on me why I hadn't been completely satisfied with it.  I didn't place a Horizon Line in the drawing.  I didn't even have one in mind and it shows.  It doesn't follow the Horizon Line principle!

The sad part is, I didn't do this on purpose, it is truly an honest mistake on my part, caused by rushing through the drawing without stopping long enough to decide on a Horizon Line.

It makes for a perfect teaching moment, and now you benefit from it.

So let's take a good look at the drawing and break down what's wrong with it.

Let's see if we can find some sort of clue as to where the Horizon Line ought to be.  If we're going by the perspective of the table, we can backwards engineer where the Horizon Line is:

Finding the Horizon Line 01

Finding the Horizon Line 02

BUT if we were going by the "clues" given to us by the clothes on the woman, the Horizon Line ought to be rather low since we seem to be looking up at her. See how we're looking into her sleeve, how her belt is wrapping around away from us and how we're seeing slightly underneath her blouse which also wraps away from us.  Even her collar does this:

Finding the Horizon Line 03

Not only that but the rack on the wall with the pens is completely flat with no perspective and offers no clues as to where the Horizon Line is.

So is the Horizon Line low or high? Well, if I was to choose, I would want it to be high in this case.

Let's go with the Horizon Line we got from the table. But if that's the case, then what needs to happen with the details on the clothes of the woman?

"Anything you are seeing BELOW the Horizon Line, you are looking down at."

In other words, it's in "the water." We have to change the direction of all the details of the clothes so that we're looking down on them NOT up.  Like this:

Perspective fix

That makes a big difference.  Now she looks like she belongs in the environment rather than looking like she was just pasted in front of it.

Do you see how important a Horizon Line is to a drawing?  A Horizon Line helps dictate the direction of details in a drawing. It's a wise idea to take the time to put it in. Otherwise you might end up with an odd drawing like I did.

There's also another very important use of the Horizon Line that has to do with character placement, but before I get into that I need to talk a little bit about Vanishing Points.

Getting the Point - One Point Perspective

We're only going to deal with two forms of perspective in this lesson:  one point perspective and two point perspective.   There are other types but they aren't used very often. I will save talking about them for another drawing level.

Let's talk about one point perspective.  It's by far the simplest.

A one point perspective view occurs when you're are seeing an object or environment straight on.  For example, if you're looking at the front of a box or looking straight down a hallway or a road.

Next to overlapping shapes, it's the easiest ways to create the illusion of space.  The principles are simple. To create a one point perspective view, first you draw a Horizon Line (hopefully NOT exactly in the middle of the page. For more on that see: Designing Super Basic Compositions.)

Place the Horizon Line

Then as the name implies, you pick a single "point" on the Horizon Line.  This is called the "Vanishing Point."  It's called that because, in a one point perspective drawing, all receding lines "vanish" to that one point.

Here's an example of a vanishing point:

Adding a Vanishing Point

It can be drawn as an "x" or a point. I usually use a point but I drew an "x" here so you can see it better.  I purposely drew it slightly off center, to add just a touch of interest.

All receding lines "vanish" to that point:

Vanishing Point Lines

Lines that do NOT recede in space are drawn perpendicular to the picture plane. In other words, they run Horizontally or Vertically on the page. Like so:

Horizontal and Vertical Lines

Using these basic principles of a single vanishing point with perpendicular Horizontal and Vertical lines, we can create the basic illusion of depth, like the examples below:

One point perspective boxes

It may not seem like much but these basic shapes can be broken down in to more complex shapes:

One point perspective town

One point perspective is simple, straight forward, and very handy.  Complexity can also be added to it, in order to make it more accurate and naturalistic, but I'll save that information for later levels.  For now, it's enough to know how a single vanishing point works.

The only flaw with one point perspective is it's lack of versatility. For that we need to learn two point perspective...

A Different Point

Why use two points instead of one?  Well,we're not always looking at thing straight on.  Most of the time we are looking at things at  "imperfect" angles.  Two Point perspective simulates these imperfect views. It gives a drawing a much more naturalistic dynamism.

Here's the difference between a One Point perspective drawing and a Two Point perspective drawing -- In a Two Point perspective drawing, the lines that used to run Horizontally in a One Point perspective shot, now recede to their own point.

That's it. There's really nothing more too it than that.  So for example, instead of the Horizontal lines doing this:

One point horizontal line grid

They recede to their own point like this:

Two Point perspective grid

Notice that the two points are in opposite sides of the frame.  It's best to keep both vanishing point  far away from each other. If two vanishing points are too close, you'll end up with a really distorted drawing.

A good rule of thumb is, unless you're drawing something small, it's best to keep one vanishing point in the picture frame, while putting the second vanishing point off the page.

Here's an example with a drawing of a small box:

Two point perspective small box

In this case the box is small enough so that no distortion occurs. But if we were to make the box bigger:

Two Point perspective large box distortion

It looks odd. So what I need to do here, is to put the vanishing point as far away as I can. This means, it would no longer be on the page:

Two Point Perspective large box vanishing point off the page

There are many different ways to draw a vanishing point off the page.

One way would be to tape your drawing down using removable tape on your drawing table. That way the drawing doesn't move.  Then with a large ruler follow the horizon line off the paper. Place a Sticky Note somewhere along that line and draw the vanishing point on it.

The key is to have the vanishing point always line up with the horizon line.  As long as you've managed that, you should be good.

There are many ways to draw vanishing points off the page.  I  can't name all of them here.  I'll give you my favorite way later on.

Believe it or not, we're done with the major "technical" stuff. This is enough information for you to start using perspective in your drawings.  However there are some very important practical tips about using Horizon Lines, which I need to address, before we move on.

Awesome Draw Fu Perpective Secret

Alright, get ready to get your mind blown because this is the reason I wrote this chapter.

When I wrote about the Horizon Line earlier I mentioned something about a, "very important use of the Horizon Line that has to do with character placement." I'm going to share this with you now.

So far, all the info I've written, you can get anywhere else.  But what I'm about to share is sometimes mentioned or addressed in other places but it's hardly ever emphasized.  I think that's a HUGE mistake.

I think this is perhaps THE most important thing you ought to take away from this chapter.  But I couldn't really share it with you until I had written the stuff above, because it works in tandem with everything else.

When I realized how to work with the principle I'm about to share with you, it made working with perspective so much easier. Okay so here's the principle:

A person or object, if drawn on a FLAT plane (not on a hill or valley,) will ALWAYS be crossed by the Horizon Line, on the same spot on it's body, whether they are in the foreground, mid ground or background. <=CLICK TO TWEET

Okay, so what does that mean? What does it look like? I'll show you...

Say we draw a Horizon Line and we have this character here:

Character and Horizon line

Say we want to move the character forward in space so he's closer to the foreground.

Normally I see perspective books show you how you draw perspective lines from the vanishing point and cross the character at the top and bottom to find where the character ought to land. Like this:

Enlarging a character using vanishing points

That's one way to do it. But there's a few problems with this method.  What if the line goes off the page like it did with  this drawing? You'll need to add an extra piece of paper to see the whole connection point.

It can also be a bit inaccurate. In fact, if you look closely, you will see that I just broke my little principle.  The Horizon Line is NOT crossing the character in the same spot in mid ground and foreground:

Enlarging a character using vanishing points Error

The much easier way is to forget about drawing the vanishing point lines (they get in the way) and simply enlarge the character to the size you want him and have the Horizon Line cross him at the same spot it crossed him when he was in the mid ground:

Horizon line crossing the character

The drawing above is far more accurate and less "technical." This principle  is called, "Hanging a character on the Horizon Line."

No matter where the character is in space, the Horizon Line will always cross the character in the same spot on his body. In the drawing below, it's the top of the character's sash.

Hanging a character on the horizon line

You DON'T need to draw a any lines coming from the Vanishing Point to do this.  All you need is a Horizon Line, and that's it.

This is magic! This is a huge deal. But why? It doesn't seem like that big a deal.

It allows you to have a system of measuring characters and objects in space, quickly and easily, without dealing with all kinds of perspective technicalities.

This is what I mean. Say you have multiple characters in a drawing. Say that they're all standing on a flat plane (no hills, valleys, upstairs or downstairs.)

Now, what if you wanted them all to be spatially apart.  Some characters in the foreground, mid ground, and background.

How do you quickly place the characters in the drawing accurately without it becoming a big perspective mess? Here's how you use the principle...

If you know the size relationship to each of the characters you're using. You place them side by side, and put the Horizon line in:

Character line up with Horizon line

Then you simply blow them up or down, making sure to hang them on the Horizon Line:

Adjusting characters on the Horizon line

On top of that, the added benefit is that you can now rough out background elements to more accurately fit your characters. Making the background work with your characters rather than making the characters work with some random background.

How big should you make the doorway in the background? Shrink the character down and see.  How tall do I make the tabletop in the foreground? Enlarge the character and compare it to him/her:

Creating the background around your characters

But what if you're characters are NOT on a flat plane and some are up or down stairs?

Alright, so there's ways to work with situations like that.  Let's take Pen Grier in the back.  Let's say I want to put her up on the loft in the background.

First thing I have to do is shrink her down so she's a few steps further back. For the sake of this example I left the original version visible so you can see how much smaller I made her. Notice I'm still hanging her on the Horizon Line:

Placing a character on a higher plane

Now, I simply move her up to the loft by moving the drawing up. She's now up on the loft and she's the correct size relative to the background:

Placing a character on a higher plane 02

Once the character is up there, you adjust her details so it looks like you're looking up at her since she is above the Horizon Line. I didn't do so in the example, but it's what I would have done if I was making a finished drawing.

Now let's do the opposite.  Let's take the character in the foreground and say she's one step lower than the other characters.  As if there's a step off screen that we don't see.

Okay, to do this we take the character from our line up and we move her down as if she was a step down.  Below, on the left, you'll see the character in the normal line up and on the right I copied her and moved her down, so you can see and compare:

Placing a character on a lower plane 01

Now that we've done that, it's just a matter of enlarging the character by hanging her on the Horizon Line:

Placing a character on a lower plane 02

There you have it, she's now a step lower.

Alright but that doesn't really answer the trickiest question of them all, what if the Horizon Line is so far up, it doesn't cross the characters?

It's not so difficult as you might think.  Here's an example.  Below we have three copies of Brush Lee. One is a little below the Horizon Line and the two others are much further:

High horizon line characters

Most of the time you'll be dealing with something like the Brush Lee on the far left.  Characters will only miss the Horizon Line by a little.  But on occasion, they may be much further away from the Horizon Line.

The way you deal with it is simple, create an extension of the character that touches the Horizon Line.  Below you will see what I mean:

High horizon line characters extensions

With the Brush Lee on the far left I drew a circle on his head that now crosses the Horizon Line.

The one in the middle, I drew three of them until they crossed the Horizon Line.  I didn't draw a big oval or a box, although I could have.  The reason I chose three circles was because I needed something that gave me details I could hang the drawing on.  If you make something with too few details, it's more difficult to know where to anchor a drawing to the Horizon Line.

On the Brush Lee on the far right, I simply copied and pasted a duplicate on his head.

Now it's just a matter of enlarging or reducing the drawing while hanging the artificial extensions of the character on the Horizon Line:

High horizon line characters moving characters in space

There we go. Then you simple get rid of the extension and you have the character in the correct place in space:

High horizon line characters erasing extensions

Of course you would then have to go in and change all the details on the character so it look like we're looking down on him. I didn't do this in the example but I would if I was drawing a finish piece.

See, isn't that awesome?

You may be wondering if you need a copy machine or something to do this.  The answer is yes.  When working on my drawings on paper I used to spend an hour or two at the copy machine place enlarging and reducing characters so I could do my drawings.

Now a days I also use Photoshop (or the free equivalent Gimp) to do this on the computer and then print them out.  If you don't want to do this you can always  reduce or enlarge you're character's by manually drawing them bigger and smaller after drawing a line up, but it's far less accurate.  It can be done though.  As long as it looks right.

Next we'll get even more practical. We'll use the "hanging characters on the Horizon Line"  principle to backwards engineer a Horizon Line in rough drawings that don't have one...

Practically Applying Perspective Principles

It's one thing to know the mechanics of perspective, it's another thing all together to know how to practically apply them in your creative drawing.

What often happens is, once you learn perspective, you begin you're drawings by drawing all the perspective first. Then you end up with stiff, boring drawings you don't like and never intended. The characters aren't where you wanted them to be and you have no control of your drawing at all.

This gets so frustrating you simply say, "forget perspective I'm gonna draw the way I want!" but then your drawings end up all messed up because the  perspective is wrong.  But when you try to put perspective in the drawing, it ends up looking wrong.

So how are you suppose to start a drawing and actually use perspective so you can get a drawing to do what you want, and have it look right?

This is the question perspective books don't answer.  I'm here to show you one way to do it.  I'm going to show you how you can use everything you've learned so far and put it all together so it can be practically applied.

Here we go...

The first thing you need to know is, don't start with perspective. Keep perspective in mind. Yes, do that, but don't commit to anything absolute at first.

Have  a general idea of where you MIGHT put the Horizon Line but don't commit to putting one down right away.

To illustrate this I'm going to show you how I draw something from scratch.

First I come up with the general idea of what I want.  In this case, I'm going to draw the header picture of this post.  Since it's on perspective, I should show something with some dynamic perspective.

I'm going to need something with multiple characters and a background, that way, I can show a lot of depth and also show some technical background drawing.

Since I've been using three characters, Brush Lee, Pen Grier, and Valentina already, I've decided to use them. Upshots, are always exciting and dynamic so I'm thinking that's the way to go.  This means I'm going to have a low Horizon Line.

Also, to show depth, I'm going to offset each character in space.  One character will be in the foreground, one in the mid ground, and one in the background.

I'll have this take place on a fancy Florentine like bridge. I haven't designed the place completely but I kinda know what it should look like. I'll just wing it.

Alright, so now I have all the information I need to draw a rough scribble pass of the drawing:

  1. Low Horizon Line,
  2. Three characters offset in space,
  3. Fancy Florentine like bridge.

So here's what I came up with:

Beginning a drawing rough pass

Notice I didn't commit to a Horizon Line. I put a ground plane but I did that just as a quick guide.  I knew, the Horizon Line needed to be low. From the "hanging characters on the Horizon Line" principle I know that the Horizon Line would need to cross through the character's legs at some point, but I haven't specified where exactly.

It's a rough gesture drawing, at this point. I'll be talking about gesture in a later lesson. This is just about getting the characters where I want them, in the poses I want them in.

I also knew that the background needed to recede in space and I decided to go with a two point perspective view with one point going off the page. I haven't quite committed to where the Vanishing Point that's on the page is yet, since I don't have a Horizon Line but I angled the background the way I would LIKE it to look once I do find the Vanishing Point.

See, the first thing you need to do is design the drawing the way you want it to look.  Knowing the principles of perspective allows you to "eyeball" or guess where the elements of the drawing might fall, but you should compose the drawing the way you want first.

Once you do that, THEN you can add the perspective and finesse the drawing.

My next step, now that I have the rough how I want it, is to solidify the location of the Horizon Line. To do this, I line up the character ...

Using Modelsheet characters

...and place ONE of them where I want them to be, based on my rough.

Placing a modelsheet character in space

I chose Valentina because it's important that she is exactly the right size, so she fits on the page. Then I place the other characters in their rough spots.

Placing a modelsheet character in space part 2

Time to find the Horizon Line. I compare their legs.  Using the line up as my guide, I'm looking to see if there's a place where the characters' legs line up.  That's where the Horizon Line would be.

Since I drew a ground plane, I started there.  In this case, it turned out to be right. The line didn't pass through the correct part of  Pen Grier's leg so I moved her down so that it would:

Using modelsheets to find the horizon line

I've been doing this kind of thing so long that I tend to make pretty accurate rough guesses.

Now that I have a Horizon Line, I need a vanishing point. I look at the receding lines I made for the background and try to find a place on it that will give me the line I'm looking for.

Following both of my rough vanishing lines, I see there are two possible places where a point can be:

Finding the correct Vanishing point

Now, I have to decide which background angle is the most important one to me. Which one do I want to keep?

I've decided to keep number 1. This will effect my background and I'll have to make adjustments.  But that's okay, that's what the process is for. It's the reason I've kept things rough. I can make changes fast since I haven't drawn anything pretty that I'm not willing to erase.

The other vanishing point is WAY off the page.  In this case I make a vanishing point "star" (don't know what else to call it)...

Using a vanishing point star

...and I move it off the page, making sure to keep the center touching the Horizon Line.

What I'm looking for is a line or lines in the "star" that lines up with my background lines.  That's when I'll know it's in the right spot:

Finding the correct Vanishing point off the page

Once I've committed to a Vanishing Point, it's time to draw a grid. I simply create a vanishing point "star" on the Vanishing Point that's on the page and I'm done. I like doing this because it makes the perspective easier to see and work with at a glance:

Adding a perspective grid

I've got my Horizon Line, my Vanishing Points, and the characters are in place. Now I have to fix that background based on my new grid:

Adjusting a background

It's finally time to finish the drawing, making sure to follow the Horizon Line Principle. This means, we're looking up at most of the things in the drawing, so we need to emphasized that through out:

Second Rough Pass of characters

I'm using some very advanced shapes. I'll cover shape making in the next lesson. For now what you need to understand is that I'm drawing these shapes to conform with the Horizon Line and Vanishing Points I've established.

You can see that I have the character design model under the drawing as a guide.  I created the character design models for this purpose and so I can always see a definitive version of what the character looks like.  It helps a lot.

Also note that I've adjusted the background a bit.  I tried to move the building away from Brush Lee. I wanted his pose to be clear and uncluttered.

Once I'm happy with the rough shapes, I do yet another tighter pass, clarifying the details on the character.  Making sure to reinforce the Horizon Line and the Vanishing Points with the character details:

third Rough Pass of characters

I was still using the character models as a guide, although I changed Pen Grier and Brush Lee's costume.

Below is what it looks like with all the roughs and models taken away.  I tried to make sure that all the details on the characters reinforced the idea that we're looking up at them:

third Rough Pass of characters clearer

The next step is to refine and add details to the background:

Rough Background pass

This was a tough background to do.  I had something very specific in mind.  It was tough to make it work right.  In the end it turned out okay.

There's a few things I will note about working on this particular background.  I'm NOT going to use any perspective tricks that I didn't write about in this lesson.

For example, there are ways to make make receding windows and pillars look right in perspective. I didn't show you how to do this, so I will not use it.  Instead, when I clean up the background, I'll simply "eye ball," the windows and pillars.  I'll place them where they look right. This will make the drawing "less accurate," but if it looks right, who cares?

The other thing I want you to note is that in order to make sure the arches and details of the background were the right height, I shrunk down the character models and compared them to what I was drawing. Below, I'll point out where I did this:

Characters as guides

When reducing and placing the Model Sheets I used the "hanging characters on the Horizon Line," principle.

Now it's time to put in the final line:

Final pass

For all of you who are newer at drawing, please note how many versions of the characters I drew before getting to the final line. Also, note how long a process it was to get all the elements in place before I started to finish off the drawing.  I didn't simply start with a final drawing, I built it up over many, many steps.

Drawing isn't easy. Anyone can learn to draw, yes. But the process itself is a lot of work.

And that's how we put all the perspective principles to practical use when doing a drawing.

The thing about learning perspective is that, as long as you're drawing anything, whether it's cartoony or naturalistic, as long as you're creating an illusion of space, you'll ALWAYS be using it.  It's better to get used to the idea and commit to using it now so it becomes second nature.

Your Exercise

If you didn't understand that last part, that's okay.  You will later.  For now let's do some exercises which will help you understand the principles I've explained so far.

First let's work on your one point perspective.

  1. Get a sheet of paper.
  2. Draw a straight line somewhere slightly off center of the page using a colored pencil, Either above the center or below it. This is your Horizon Line.
  3. Draw a small dot slightly off center on the Horizon Line. This will be your Vanishing Point.
  4. Using a ruler, and a different colored pencil that doesn't match the Horizon Line color, LIGHTLY draw a bunch of lines off the center of the Vanishing Point, like a star. Try to keep these lines close together.
  5. Without using a ruler, draw three boxes on the page, using the Vanishing Point and the lines emanating from it.  One above the Horizon Line, One below the Horizon Line, and one on the Horizon Line. If you find you're having fun doing this, feel free to keep drawing boxes. Fill the page with them.

When you're done, it should look something like this:

One point perspective boxes

Now let's practice two point perspective.

  • Get a sheet of paper.
  • Draw a straight line somewhere slightly off center of the page using a colored pencil, Either above the center or below it. This is your Horizon Line.
  • Draw two small dots on opposite ends of the page. Each dot should be near the edge of the paper. These will be your Vanishing Points.
  • Using a ruler, and two different colored pencils that don't match each other or the Horizon Line color, LIGHTLY draw a bunch of lines off the center of each Vanishing Point, like a star. Try to keep these lines close together.
  • Without using a ruler, draw three boxes on the page, using the two Vanishing Points and the lines emanating from them.  One above the Horizon Line, One below the Horizon Line, and one on the Horizon Line. If you find you're having fun doing this, feel free to keep drawing boxes. Fill the page with them.

When you're done, it should look something like this:

Two point perspective boxes

Now let's practice hanging characters on a Horizon Line. For this exercise, you may want to have a copier or a scanner and printer handy.  Or you can do this all digitally using Photoshop or Gimp.

  1. Draw a simple cartoon character made out of flat shapes from your imagination.
  2. Next draw a Horizon Line across the character.
  3. Enlarge the character and place it on the page with the Horizon Line crossing the character at the same point of it's body as the original.
  4. Reduce the character and place it on the page with the Horizon Line crossing the character at the same point of it's body as the original.
  5. Reduce the character one more time and do number 4 again.

It should look something like this when you're done:

Hanging character on the Horizon Line exercise

Finally, let's practice finding the Horizon Line in a drawing, using the "Hanging a character on the Horizon Line" Principle.

Where should the Horizon Lines be place in the drawings below?

Find the horizon line

Once you think you've found the answer, click the links below to check if you've got it right:

ANSWER

If these exercises aren't enough for you and you want to keep practicing, go right ahead.  You can create variations of these exercises.  For example you can combine them by creating an environment of boxes and populating them with characters whose sizes vary by hanging them on the Horizon Line.

Or draw the characters first and THEN create the environment based on them.

Also there's no reason why you can't add details to the boxed and make them buildings or interiors.

Have fun. Be creative.

Pro Tip

A fast way to solve perspective problems for your analog drawings is to make a grid.

Simply get a sheet of 11x14 paper or bigger, then draw a Horizon Line across the middle. Make sure that the Horizon Line is a different color than the rest of the grid lines:

Creating and using a grid (1)

Then draw two Vanishing Points on opposite sides of the sheet and create a grid:

Creating and using a grid (2)

Once you have this it's easy to use.  If you have a sketch you want to add perspective onto, simply put the grid under your drawing and using a light box, find the spot in your sketch you want to draw the Horizon Line at. Make sure to use a different color line to distinguish your Horizon Line from the rest of the grid on your drawing:

Creating and using a grid (3)

After the Horizon Line is placed, to find the first Vanishing Point, slide the grid around under the paper until you find a good place to put it. Draw a grid off of that. I like using a different color for the lines off this vanishing point:

Creating and using a grid (4)

Creating and using a grid (5)

Now here's the important part, you can then MOVE the grid around under the drawing again to find the second Vanishing Point. You're not obligated to use the distance of the Vanishing Points on your grid. Depending on the drawing, they might be too close together or too far apart. You can move it farther and closer, depending on what looks right.

Using this grid makes finding Vanishing Points that are off your page easier:

Creating and using a grid (6)

Once you're happy with the location, you draw out the grid on your page. I use yet another color for lines emanating from the second Vanishing Point:

Creating and using a grid (7)

And you're ready to finish your drawing:

Creating and using a grid (8)

I hope this tip helps you out and speeds up your perspective drawings as much as it has done mine.

Questions?

I can’t help you if you don’t ask.

What’s your burning perspective questions?

Is there something you’ve always wanted to know about perspective? Ask.

I’ll give you my best answer and, who knows,  probably write a post about it.

Leave any comments and questions in the comments below.

Or better yet, sign up to receive more information via e-mail. You’ll get extra tips and advice.  You can ask me questions that way also.

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The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal – Art Supplies

October 15, 2014 in Intermediate, Lvl 1

The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal

The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal – Art SuppliesWelcome to the arsenal. It's time to start revealing to you the secrets weapons of Draw Fu.

It's time for you to look inside that secret little box or bag that draftsmen walk around with which have so many mysterious pencils, markers, pens brushes, and even razor blades.

It's also time to take a look at "The Tome," you know the one. It's more commonly called, "The Sketchbook."

By the time you're done reading this, you'll be ready to have you're own Draw Fu arsenal.

Why Bother With Drawing Tools

But why now? In the Choose Your Practice Weapons lesson for Lvl 0 I said, you don't need fancy drawing supplies.

This is true.

I also said, It’s not the tools used that makes a good drawing- it’s the skill of the draftsman.  <=CLICK TO RETWEET

Also very true.

So why am I suddenly talking about drawing tools?  Simple, because good drawing tools make it easier.

That's it.  No mystery.  They simply make it easier to get the results you want.

You can drive a nail into wood just as easily with a rock as with a hammer, but it's much easier and more accurate with a hammer.

There's also the added benefit of the unique effects you can get from specialized drawing tools.

But why now? Why tell you about these tools now, if all your going to be learning is cartoons?

Because this is the perfect time to learn about this stuff.  This is the time you can experiment the most.  Remember, there is no right way to draw cartoons. So you can experiment with all these tools without the fear of ruining anything.

You might drop ink on something or smudge something.  That's okay, this is the time to do it.  This is the time to mess up the most with the tools.

You get better at drawing and get better at using fancy tools at the same time.  So if you decided to take your work to the next level, you'll be comfortable with all the drawing tools you'll be using.

Expense

Now, a word on expense.

This stuff does cost money. If you want to make drawing you're hobby of choice OR if you want to make it you're career, you'll need to invest in art supplies.

The money you spend is like the time you spend. It's an investment in yourself.

If this is for your hobby then you're investing in your personal growth as well as the sheer fun of using the art supplies (and trust me, some of this stuff is super fun to use.)

But if this is your career, not only do you get the personal growth and fun but, you're investing in the possibility that the art supplies will eventually make you your money back.

Okay, so that being said, I will recommend this, don't go overboard.  Don't buy EVERYTHING I suggest. You don't need it all.

Even I don't have it all, although I've used it all at some point.

Buy one or two things, see what they're like. Experiment and play with it.  Have fun.

And if you find you need one of the other things, by all means get that too. It's best to buy a thing when you know you'll use it than having it sit there collecting dust.

Don't buy ANYTHING I recommend if you know for a fact you WILL NOT use it.  That would not be an investment, it's a waste of money.  Don't do that to yourself.

Don't INTEND to use the art supplies you invest in, USE the art supplies you invest in. Otherwise, don't bother. Save your money.

So let's begin. Behold the mysterious weapons of Draw Fu:

Paper

Copy PaperCopy Paper - Believe or not regular copy paper is totally fine to use.  You know, the kind you can get an office supply store? If you don't know what to get, get this first.

Depending on your preference, you might want slightly thinker paper or thinner cheaper paper, so prices may vary.  Really, it's just a matter of taste.  This is the kind of paper you'll probably use most when you're not drawing in a sketchbook.

Paper size varies depending on purpose.  From 8.5 x 11 to 11 x 17.

The only drawback to copy paper is that it's smooth only.  If you prefer rough paper, you need to look elsewhere.

Tracing PaperTracing Paper - Tracing paper comes in very handy. Especially if you don't have a lightbox, which I will write about below.

Rarely does a drawing come out well the first time.  You usually have to draw it over and over.  Tracing paper comes in handy for doing just that.

Also, the waxy nature of tracing paper makes it ideal for shading your drawings.  On top of that, Prismacolor Pencils are erasable on tracing paper.  I'll talk a bit about those types of pencils below.

SketchBook - The best sketchbook is the kind you will draw in.  Don't buy one if you won't draw in it.

There are many kinds of sketchbooks.  From Strathmore, to Canson, to Moleskine. Each sketchbook has different types of art paper in it.

Rough paper is good for shading with a textured look.  Also it's spectacular with watercolors and gouache. Although it Sketchbookwarps so you might want to go with Watercolor paper if you're going to do finished work with those mediums.

Smooth paper takes pencil, ink, and many other mediums very well.  Smooth paper seems to be what most sketchbooks come with, because it's very versatile.

Hardcover or soft cover? That depends on your preference.  I use both.

Spiral or Bound?  Again, this is all preference.

That said, the spiral sketchbooks allows you to flip the sketchbook open in such a way that you're only dealing with one page at a time. This takes up less space when drawing and it's easier to hold when field sketching.

Sticky NoteBound sketchbooks come in handy when you lay them flat and you draw across the crease of the paper to make a much bigger drawing. They also look a tad more classy.

Sticky Notes - These kind of paper pads have a sticky side.  They come in handy when experimenting with adjustments or additions to a drawing.

If you don't like the way the hair came out on a drawing, add a sticky note on it and try again.  Very handy when you don't want to use tracing paper but you want to fix something without erasing the original drawing.

Pencils

Regular PencilRegular Pencils - You can't go wrong with a regular Number 2 pencil.  It works.  For regular line drawing, this is the pencil to have.  No need to get fancy. Pretty much every artist uses a version of a regular pencil.

That said, every manufacturer of pencils is different.  You might find you like the quality of one brand of number 2 pencil over another.

For the purposes of drawing cartoons, they're good to use for under drawing and some final line art as well.

Art Pencils - Art PencilIf you prefer variety or you want to start experimenting with adding tone, (otherwise known as shading) you might want to invest in some sort of art pencils.

The pencils are made up of graphite of differing softness.  The scale is from 9H to 9B.

"H" stands for Hard.

"B" stands for Black.

The higher the number on an "H" pencil the harder the graphite. The harder the pencil the lighter the line it will make. Basically it's saying, it has a higher content of clay in it.

The higher the number in  a "B" pencil the softer the graphite and the blacker the line quality. It has less clay so it's much more "crumbly."  These pencils get dull faster but they make much bolder lines.

HB pencils are pretty standard midway pencils.  Most Number 2 pencils are HB (Hard and Black.)

2B pencils are used most often as good versatile drawing pencil.   Although if you're very heavy handed you might want to go with an H pencil or you'll have a hard time erasing your marks if you make a mistake.

Different brands of pencils vary in quality and feel.  You might want to experiment to see which brand you like best.

That said, the hyperlinks I've provided,  link to the kind of pencils I like using most.

Besides adding tone, art pencils can also be used for under drawings (especially the H pencils), and final line art (often using B pencils).

Colored Pencils - There are two types of color pencils that are used most when drawing cartoons.  They are, Col-Erase Pencils and Prisma Color Pencils.

Col-Erase PencilCol-Erase - These pencils' unique feature are their erase-ability. When drawing cartoons, they're most commonly used for under drawing. The color used is a matter of preference.

Prismacolor Colored Pencils - Prisma Color PencilPrisma Color Pencils are a much more waxy and vibrant type of pencil. When used on tracing paper, they are erasable.  Otherwise they're very permanent.

For cartooning, black Prisma color pencils are mostly used. They come in handy for making finished line work, on regular paper or on tracing paper.

Mechanical Pencils - Mechanical PencilIf you like drawing with fine lines, mechanical pencils are the way to go.   They have the added advantage of not needing to be sharpened, nor do they get smaller as you sharpen them.  The leads also come in grades of hardness as well as different colors.

0.5 leads are good for doing clean up work with consistent lines.

0.7 leads are good for doing under drawing and preliminary sketching.

The drawback to using mechanical pencils is that, the fine nature of the line may cause you to stiffen up more than you would using pencils that get duller as you draw.  Also, it's much more difficult to get a variety of lines with them.

Erasers

Rubber EraserNot all erasers are the same.  Some are better than others. Here are the two that tend to work best when erasing artwork.

White Rubber Eraser - These erasers are the best. They tend to erase pencil art very well without smearing or ripping the paper.

Just don't hold them in your hand too much. The oils in your hand rub off on them and cause them smear your work.

Kneaded EraserKneaded Eraser - One of the most versatile erasers you can buy.  They're like erasers made out of puddy.  You can shape them anyway you want. This makes them ideal for erasing tiny spots.  Or you can roll them over a drawing to lighten up your rough line work, so you can draw a final line over it.

When they get too dirty, you just "knead" them until they're clean.

Don't hold these in your hands too much or play too much with them.  The oils in your skin ruins them.

Pen and Ink

Time to start talking about pens and ink.  Cartoons look best with black bold lines.  It makes your work look great and professional.

Below I'm going to be recommending brushes and quills.  I'm not worried at all about recommending these kind of ink tools.  When I was about 11 or 12 years old, I started using quills. A year or two later I began using brushes.

If I could start that young, I think I can recommend these things.

Dip Pens - When drawing cartoons, dip pens are some one of the best ways to go. It's difficult to get similar line work using any other types of pen.

They take some getting used to since there's a bit of maintenance required when using these pens. Which basically means, washing the pens after use, so they last longer.

They're also a tad tricky to learn to use. They only make marks when holding the pens a certain way and pulling the pen in the direction you want to make the mark.  When you get one and play with it you'll see what I mean.

There are two types of dip pens, Crow Quills , Holders and Nibs.

  • Crow Quill - QuillCrow Quills are these tiny dip pens that are usually connected to a little brown pen holder. They are great for fine detailed line work. They're also very good beginner dip pens.  This is what I used when I first started. They're inexpensive so if you mess them up You don't have to worry too much.
  • Dip PenHolders - Holders aren't actually pens, they simply hold pen nibs.  Holders are sometimes bought separately but often come packaged with nibs. The Holders are long pen shafts that you place nibs in. You can invest in only one and use it with many different nibs.
  • Nibs - There are many kinds of nibs you can buy.  They each have a purpose and create different kinds of lines.  For cartooning purposes, we will only look at two. The Gillott #170, is a nib that you can ink fine detailed lines with and get a good varied line.  The Hunt Dome Point is similar to the Gillot #170, but the nature of this nib makes it a tad more flexible to use.  Both these nibs are very useful to have.

BrushBrushes - Another standard inking tools.  Brushes give greater variety and versatility than dip pens.  They're also a tad tricker to use. They are so worth learning to use though.

The recommended brushes to buys are the Winsor Newton Series 7 brushes at size 2 and 3.  BUT these brushes can be a bit pricey. If you're just learning to use a brush find an inexpensive watercolor brush with a point at size 2 and 3.

That way you can mess them up and ruin them as you learn to use them without it getting expensive.

You might also get a slightly bigger brush if you tend to use a lot of black and want to ink large areas faster.

Inks - If you have dip pens and brushes to ink with, you need ink.  At this point, the brand doesn't matter, what matters is that it's black, waterproof and doesn't have tar.  The tar may ruin your tools. Here are some suggestions.

  • Pelikan Ink - I like it because it's a good black and it's waterproof.  Unfortunately it can be tricky to find.

  • Black Magic Ink
    - This is the brand I learned to ink with.  It's a good ink and it's pretty much everywhere.

Pelikan InkBlack India Ink

Felt tip Pens - Felt tip pens are great to ink with on the go.  They used to be the worst kind of pens to ink with because they used to fade.  Now a days many types of felt tip pens have good permanent ink that doesn't fade.

I'm going to recommend two kinds of pens. Both type of pens give only one type of line quality depending on the width of the pen.  If you don't want line variety in you inks, these are the way to go.

  • Pigma Microns - Micron PenThese pens come in a variety of different sizes from the 005 (0.20mm) to 08 (0.50mm).  I tend to use sizes 02 and 05.
  • Pitt Pens - Pitt PenThese pens are mostly brush pens, which I will write about below, but they also have Super Fine, Fine, and Medium tips, which are similar to the Microns but often work better.  They just aren't as varied as the Microns.

Brush Pens - These pens are great when you want to get the line variety of a brush without the dipping and the cleaning.  They're not as versatile as inking with a real brush but they are a good substitute in a pinch.

They're also good practice tools to get you comfortable with the line variety you can get with brushes.

  • Felt Tip - There are many kinds of felt tip brush pens. Some are better than others. They don't react like brushes and they sometimes get rough and beat up. That said, they are good beginner brushes. I don't use felt tip brush pens very often, but when I do, I like using the size B Pitt Pens .Pitt Pen
  • Synthetic Brush - These brushes are the closest thing to inking with an actual dip brush you can get.  You can even simulate some dip brush effects, to some extent, using these Pentel Pocket Brush Pentype of brushes.  The Pentel Pocket Brush Pens are very handy and versatile. They use replaceable ink  cartridges.  Although it's arguable that the Pentel Standard Brush Pen is the way to go since you can regulate the amount of ink that Pentel Brush Pencomes out by squeezing the stem of the brush.  That way you can get dry brush and other effect.  These pens are a good next step when training to use brushes.

Light Box

Light BoxWhen I was 14, I discovered, rather quickly, that having a light box was one of the most helpful tools to have for analog drawing. I made mine in my high school Woodshop class. I've been using it ever since.

A Light Box is a large or small box like object, or tablet that lights up from the inside.  The drawing surface is made of glass or transparent white plastic.

Light boxes are really handy for drawing. They allow you to basically replace tracing paper as a way to fix or finish your drawing.

With a light box you can rough out a drawing on regular paper, then put a new piece of regular paper on top, and using the light box to see through both sheets,  draw a tighter line over it.

Or you can use it draw different elements of a drawing on separate pieces of paper and then transfer them all to one piece later.

This is a HUGE deal.  If you're familiar with programs like Photoshop, this is the analog equivalent of "adding layers."  It makes reworking and adjusting your artwork, so much easier.

Also, you can flip over your drawing over your light box to see how it looks like in reverse. Very often you can see the imbalances in your drawing this way.

You can then draw rough fixes on the back of the sheet.  Once that's done, you can turn it back around, erase the bad parts of the drawing and fix the drawing based on the roughs you can see through the sheet.

I can't live without my light box.  I don't know how other artists do what they do without one.

If it's possible for you to get a light box, you should.

If you can't, stick with tracing paper.

Trouble?

Q: That's a lot of stuff.  A bit too much actually. So what should I get first?

A: Well, first you might want to try getting yourself some copy paper and/or a sketchbook.  You need something to draw on.

Then get a comfortable pencil. One you like. It can be mechanical, as long as you like using it. Also, pick up a white rubber eraser and the kneaded eraser.   You will need them.

After that, simply start drawing on the paper and sketchbook.

Pro Tip

Don't go over board.

Once you think your ready for more, start using a regular ballpoint pen to finish off your pencil drawing.  Draw a drawing with pencil first then draw over it with a ballpoint pen.

Using the kneaded eraser, erase the pencil art leaving only the ballpoint pen lines.

You're now "inking." Do this for a while until you feel comfortable.  Then experiment with other types of pens.

After that, pick something new to use. A col-erase pencil, tracing paper, etc, and experiment with those.

It's all about not going too fast and not spending too much.  Enjoy the process, explore and have fun.

 

 

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Tags: Drawing supplies, Intermediate, Lvl 1
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Where’s The Level 1 Draw Fu Lessons?

April 2, 2014 in News and Updates

Where's the Level 1 Draw Fu Lessons?

Wheres the level 1 lessonsThis is the question I get asked the most. I thought I'd write up a useful update. One that would be helpful and will update you on where I'm at with the next few lessons.

The information in this post was originally written in two of my previous Draw Fu Newsletters.  This is the kind of tips I give out once a week when you sign up to receive them.

I've linked to the two newsletters before in the comments sections at this site, but I thought I'd combine them, clean them up and make a blog post out of them. That way, I didn't have to keep linking to them when I got asked again.

So here we go:

Who Are You Drawing For?

Who are you drawing for? The answer makes all the difference.

The answer can be as simple as, "myself," or as complicated as "50 year old single, male, home owners, with pet cats."  Whether you're drawing for your mom or a client, it makes a difference.

When drawing, you should always keep who you're drawing for in the back of your mind. It makes subtle and not so subtle differences to what you do and how you draw it.

Case in point...

I am currently designing the look of the characters for the Level 1 Lessons.

Both Brush Lee and Pen Grier needed to be redesigned.  I also need to design secondary characters.

Why the redesign of the protagonists?

Because the target audience for the Level 1 Lessons are elementary school kids. As cartoony as my characters already are, I thought they needed to be even MORE cartoony.  They needed to be even simpler looking.

This decision was based off of what I liked when I was in elementary school.  The more cartoony something was, the more I liked it.  The more "real" or "serious" it looked, the less likely I was to pick it up.  I'm basically writing these lessons for the kid I was when I was in elementary school.

I know that not all elementary school kids think this way, but by doing this, I know exactly who my target audience is and therefore it makes it easier for me to make design decisions. It also helps that  my kids have similar tastes as me when I was their age.

Sneak Peek at the Designs

I thought I'd give you a sneak peek at the work I've put in so far into the designs.

The Level 1 Lessons will be done in the form a of a comic and it takes place in a world where drawing is a highly praised skill.  The story will also take the form a Kung Fu movie only instead of Kung Fu, people will battle with "Draw Fu".  Everything the characters learn in the story will be real world, pragmatic drawing lessons.  They will be even easier to learn because they will be taught in the form a story.

Here are the designs I've got so far. I'm showing you the whole process so you can see that I really worked to find a look that satisfied me.  Especially for Brush Lee.  He was giving me a lot of trouble:

Draw Fu Comic Designs 08

Draw Fu Comic Designs 12

Draw Fu Comic Designs 03

Draw Fu Comic Designs 13

Draw Fu Comic Designs 11

Draw Fu Comic Designs 02

Draw Fu Comic Designs 06

 

Designing "Ren Punks"

Now a sneak peek at the antagonists.

One male, two females.  They are meant to be Latinos, but also "punks" or hoodlums.  What I'm going for here is three characters that have a threatening look, but that also come across as "ethnic."

I'm a Latino, and as such, I know that there isn't a "Latino look." We come in ALL shapes and colors.  Blue eyed, light skinned blondes, Blacks, Asians, mocha skinned Mayans and everything else.  And it's not as simple as putting a sombrero on a character because not all Latinos are Mexican.

Still, I had to start somewhere. At first I decided to just draw a tough guy (AXEL) but that didn't go anywhere.  He didn't look ethnic enough. And if anything. the character looked Asian.

Below, you can see me just throwing ideas out.  While working on this page I was constantly looking at reference or other artists to see if anything would trigger a direction I could take:

Draw Fu Comic Designs 04

I finally found a direction I wanted to take the guy and started playing around with some variations:

Draw Fu Comic Designs 05

Below you see what I decided his final look would be.  I then started working on designing his girlfriend (VALENTINA).  The Valentina's hair was really the big challenge:

Draw Fu Comic Designs 07

I thought I had gotten the hair the way I wanted and then started designing her body.  She was much too thin and generic so I thought I give her some heavy curves.  I also started playing more with her costume.  Once I had what I thought was good, I moved on to the Axel's sister (ARIANA).

For Ariana, I decided to make her look the opposite of Valentina so I decided to make her tall and skinny:
Draw Fu Comic Designs 09

I decided I was not satisfied with the Valentina. She and Ariana still had too similar a look, so I played some more with her body shapes.

I even did a line up of the character shapes and worked on the Valentina's costume a bit more.
I also started designing props and backgrounds. I had a ton of photos I'd taken when I visited Italy years ago. They came in handy.  I plan on developing the backgrounds more in the comic itself but I needed a direction to go in:
Draw Fu Comic Designs 10

Still not satisfied with the Valentina's hair and face, I gave it another shot.
I actually looked at a video that showed me how a woman could wear her hair like this so I would know how it "worked."  Then I exaggerated it:

Draw Fu Comic Designs 01

Now that I've got what I think I want, it's time to write out the script so I can start thumbnailing the comic.

Almost all the reference material I used to inspire the drawings above I put on my Draw Fu Pinterest board. I used the photos as jumping off points when it comes to costumes, characters faces, environments and archetypes. Go have a look.

I hope this was insightful.

A Comic Versus Prose

It takes MUCH longer to create a comic than it does to write prose.  Sorry it's taking so long.

As of the time of this writing, I'm much further along in the process than what I showed above.  Still, I have a along way to go.

I'll see what I can do about speeding things up. Thanks for understanding.

For more updates on the Level 1 lessons, join the newsletter.

If you want to get more Draw Fu, join our community on Facebook.  There you will find a Draw Fu Group where you can show off your work or find great tips, encouragement and inspiration from other Draw Fu Artists and myself. It's a very positive community well worth joining.

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The Benefits of Drawing

July 31, 2013 in Guest Posts

This post is guest written by Lisa Fraser.

"Art teaches nothing, except the significance of life." ~ Henry Miller

Are There Any Psychological Benefits to Drawing?

The-Benefits-of-Drawing

There are certainly benefits to using the creative arts to express oneself. It can be used as an outlet for stress for example, which many people can find therapeutic and ultimately beneficial to their well being. Drawing is a great method of communication, and is something that anyone can do to express themselves, as everyone can be creative in some form or another and therefore hopefully find at least some small benefit from it. On the other hand, for people who enjoy drawing as a hobby or job, the benefits could be huge, with improved levels of happiness from doing something you take pleasure in, reduced stress levels, feelings of achievement and many other positive psychological effects.The Benefits of Drawing 01

Drawing with Children

Drawing is particularly good for children or simply those who don’t feel confident or completely comfortable with expressing themselves through a purely verbal means of communication. Young children generally lack the ability to articulate every specific thing they would like to say, and this can be very frustrating for them, so for them, drawing is a way of putting their thoughts, feelings and ideas across to adults. Drawing can also stimulate brain development in young children, as the process and techniques used in making diligent observations can help to encourage an eye for detail and an improved memory as well as improving handwriting and general dexterity. The importance of having art subjects on school curriculums is justified by the visual imagery links that some people find vital to the understanding of other subjects on the curriculum, for instance with subjects such as math and geography, which may require a certain capacity and understanding of visual imagery.

Drawing for Adults

Psychological benefits from drawing for adults could be substantial to the point where it affects a persons day to day living. By drawing out your thoughts and ideas, and letting your imagination loose on paper in a tangible form, you might find yourself releasing some inner tension that you were previously unaware of or you might just find the experience relaxing and refreshing, a sort of catharsis that allows you to restructure your mind and think more clearly. This could then lead you onto solving a problem that you had previously not been able to find a solution to without the therapeutic nature of drawing. Drawing ideas down on paper can also help you share your thoughts and feelings with other people that you might find very difficult to express verbally or otherwise. Self-exploration through drawing could lead you to some insightful conclusions about yourself, as well as improving your mental, physical and emotional wellbeing.

Art and Therapy

Art can be a very effective tool in the treatment of mental health disorders, because the expression it can provide helps people communicate with each other with ultimate emotional freedom, helping them to alleviate stress and help them explore different areas of their creativity. As a result of this, patients may then find that they are able to handle their behavior more effectively, which in turn helps to build their self esteem and awareness. It can also help with developing healthy coping strategies and acceptance of the challenges we The Benefits of Drawing 02face throughout life. Throughout the 20th century, doctors noticed that patients who expressed themselves in drawings, paintings and other creative mediums led to doctors being able to assess and treat patients more effectively. These methods have been used as a treatment in the form of art therapy ever since, usually in conjunction with other forms of therapy such as, behavioral, cognitive and these options on recovery.org. Anyone can use art therapy, either on their own or with help from a professional, and no matter how good as person is with the creative mediums.

Other Psychological Effects

With adults, children and those receiving art therapy alike, drawing and art therapy as an extension can help with interpersonal skills, problem solving skills, increasing attention-span, self-managing techniques and other vital life skills that we all make use of on a daily basis. If drawing was a standard, widely practiced method of managing our stress levels, and something that we could get into the habit of fitting into our busy day to day schedules, then who knows what the psychological impact on our lives could potentially be.

Did you Like This?

If you want more drawing advice, tips, tricks and info, subscribe to The Drawing Website newsletter.  If you do, you can get The Art of Draw Fu: Beginners Level pdf book for FREE. Don't miss out.

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The Drawing Website is going on a short break.

January 16, 2013 in News and Updates

Don't Panic!

The drawing Website is going on a short breakThe newsletters will still be sent out every week until I get back to posting lessons.

So here's what's going on.

I'm currently compiling all the Level 0 posts together into a digital book.  I'm adding extra content so you'll get more than what is written on the site.  Once I'm done doing this, a digital copy of the book will be given to EVERYONE who is currently subscribed to the newsletter as well as anyone who subscribes in the future.

I will also create a physical copy of the book, for anyone who preferred the convenience of a hard copy book. This will be available for purchase at amazon.com.

Level 1

As I do this, I'm also planning out the Level 1 lessons.  My plan is to sit down and write out all the lessons all at once. That way, I can have them all done and ready to post once a week. That way, I don't overwhelm you with too much information all at once, yet I can release a post every week.

It will also give me the time and opportunity to compile those lessons into a digital book and physical book. That way, it will be ready to go once all the lessons are all posted.

If I do this right, I'll also have the next level lessons ready and there won't be a break.

So stay tuned.

If you want to make sure to catch the lessons once they start, make sure to opt in to receive the newsletters. You'll be the first to know.

See you soon.

 

 

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Book Review: Drawing with Children – A Creative Method for Adult Beginners, Too.

January 2, 2013 in Beginners, Books, Lvl 0

"We are all creative. Creativity is the hallmark human capacity that has allowed us to survive thus far. Our brains are wired to be creative, and the only thing stopping you from expressing the creativity that is your birthright is your belief that there are creative people and uncreative people and that you fall in that second category." ~Shelly Carson

The Begin Drawing Books

Book Review Drawing with Children  A Creative Method for Adult Beginners Too.

I don't get it. It seems to me that the information I've written in this site is necessary and something that many people need. Yet, the books about this subject are almost impossible to find.

Why?!

Every beginning drawing book I found assumed a level of skill from the reader that many of the readers may not have.  They start with 3D shapes and volume, with shading and construction, yet they never once asked, does the person reading this book even know how control their pencil?

How come?

Am I the only one writing about this stuff? I can't be. There must be  SOMEONE else teaching drawing at this level.

I'm not able to write about EVERYTHING. Surely there are things that I've missed. I'm sure that there are things I say and write that don't resonate with some people but if it were said a different way by someone else, it might.

So I went out to look for books. Books that I could recommend that would compliment the information I've written.

I searched for a while and after looking through shelves of books, I actually found a book, a single book, that I can proudly recommend.

If you've liked the information in this site, you're in luck. The book I'm going to be reviewing in this post is just what you're looking for.

About This Review

Okay, before I begin, I just wanted to let you know that:

  1. every link to the book is an affiliate link. Which means if you buy the book using this link, Amazon will give me a tiny percentage of the money they earn from your purchase. Your support is appreciated,
  2. I'm going to write what I like about the book first and what I DON'T like about the book second,
  3. I'm going to give suggestions on how this book ought to be used.

That being out the way, let's begin...

The Book

Drawing With Children: A Creative Method for Adult Beginners, Too is exactly what the title says. Mona Brookes has written a book for adults so they can teach their children how to draw, but doing so actually ends up teaching the adults how to draw too.

The goal of the book is to help you become a good observational artist (notice I used the word artist not draftsman. I'll explain myself later in this review).

What I Love About This Book

There's a lot to like about this book. Before you even get to the foreword, there's a section called "A Note to Parents and Educators" which is worth buying the book for.

It really should be a blog post of something. One of the many things it brings up is a comparison between how writing is seen in schools compared to drawing. Just to show how much more valued writing is compared to drawing.

It really makes you think, but one of my favorite paragraphs is the one below which is written within the context of how drawing stimulates your brain:

"As brain scientists interested in the whole spectrum of human learning, we know that the trained, practiced, stimulated brain is also more efficient at new learning. If we develop the building blocks of visual perception, visual spacial organization, and visual discrimination by learning to draw, our brain cannot help but transfer these skills to such a tasks as mathematics, which is at it's base the organization of objects in space, or to reading and spelling, which require visual attention to detail as well as pattern and organization in space, as the eye seeps across the line of print and down to the next line."

Once you get into the first part of the book, there are a lot reasons why this book is worth having on your shelf if you're just beginning to learn to draw. Let me break it down Chapter by Chapter. This won't take long. Especially since out of the nine or so chapters in this book I only really like about four(ish) of them.

Oh, just to let you know, the book doesn't actually number its chapters:

Chapter 1 - Before You Draw:

This a great chapter on the psychology of drawing and why people often quit. It's great at relieving fears and pressures when it comes to drawing.

Chapter 2- Setting the Stage:

A great chapter on how to prepare a good drawing environment, although I completely disagree with the drawing equipment recommended in this chapter when it comes to grown ups, SOME of the equipment is great for kids.

Chapter 3 - Creating a Supportive Climate:

This chapter is great for improving the environment for beginners. Including what language to use for people starting out. Very important for building confidence. I think, eventually, as the artist begins to get better, the "forbidden words" MUST come into use or else complete growth is impossible.

Chapter 4 - Choosing your Starting Level:

My favorite chapter in the book. THIS is the chapter to get the book for. It sets up tests that tell you what level of drawing you're at. This helps to point you and your kids to the lessons they should start learning from and working on to develop the skills you need to learn. The tests are great.

Below is an example of the test of Level 1 and Level 2. I traced the test and had my six year-old daughter do it. She did great. She's definitely at "Level 2":

Drawing With Children and 6 year old daughter test

Drawing With Children 6 year old daughter test

The Lesson Chapters

Chapter 5 - Lesson 1:

These lessons are great at relaxation exercises, tool experimentation and what the author calls, "The 5 elements of Shape".

The five elements are similar to my 3 line types only there are more types. Like Dots, Circles, Angles, as well as straights and "C" curves.

This is very interesting and if you find this helps you more than the three types of lines I mention, then you should use this instead. The best part of this Lesson though, is the drawing games and warm-ups.

These are great exercises and a great idea for starting your day of drawing as a beginner. My favorite is the "Mirror Imaging Warm-up. Learning to make something look the same on both sides of a drawing is critical. Wine bottle anyone?

Some of the exercises are very similar to the ones I made. In fact, you can use them to add to what I shared on my posts and they'd fit perfectly. If my exercises aren't enough and you need a few more steps to get the hang of things, this chapter has plenty of help for you.

Chapter 6 - Lesson 2:

Around here is where the trouble starts. I'll talk about that below but first let me write about what I like. The section on overlapping is great.

The little exercises are very cool. The section on making adjustments and changes are incredibly handy. There's something liberating about making a mistake and using it to improve a drawing.

But hands down, the best part of this Lesson is the section called "Projecting the image on the paper" something I have yet to master. This little bit of the book gives you tips on how to teach your self and kids to do it. I am very impressed.

Chapter 8 (yes I skipped a chapter) - Lesson 4:

Has an advanced topic regarding observational drawing, the topic of Positive and Negative space. It's a good chapter. A bit advanced though. The explanation of these advanced notions are pretty good and worth reading. They also have very cool exercises concerning Positive and Negative Space.

What I Just Don't Like About This Book

The book is very limited in the drawing skills it actually teaches.  There are sections that I downright disagree with and some sections that really bug me. For example:

Chapter 9 - Lesson 5:

In this Lesson there's a section on "feelings." Now, I'm not against feeling and emotional content in your drawings. It's often the spark that makes a drawing into art, BUT the way this section is written drives me crazy.

For example, there's a page full of art from professional artists. The quote in that page says this:

"FIG 2.3. It is not necessary for your drawing to be technically perfect. Notice the inaccuracies and so called mistakes in these famous artist's renderings. Personal involvement and projection of the artist's feelings is what we respond to in our favorite works of art."

At least two of the pieces referred to where sketches. Sketches that when looked closely, you can see that artist was a good draftsman and chose to shorthand what he thought would work best for his drawing. It wasn't "feeling" that made the art good.

Here's my point. You don't tell a kid who can barely write a sentence to write a Shakespearean play purely on "feeling". Why then, would you tell a beginning student who is just learning to put overlapping shapes together to do the equivalent?

First master the fundamentals.

Besides all of chapter 5, the other chapters that I didn't really like are:

Chapter 6 - Lesson 2 - most of this chapter
Chapter 7 - Lesson 3
Chapter 8 - Lesson 4

Why didn't I like these?

Well, it's where, I think, the book fails. As good as it is at getting you comfortable at drawing, it doesn't teach the fundamental of good draftsmanship. It's what I call an "artsy fartsy" book.

It's as if the book is saying, "There is no right or wrong, as long as you draw it, it must be great art."

This is a good principle when you're beginning to draw. There IS no right and wrong. If fact, if drawing is a hobby, there may NEVER be a right and wrong for you. But if you want to draw for a living, or want your drawing to go in a certain academic direction, there is certainly a right and wrong way to draw a thing.

The sections in this book on shading...well they don't really exist. Not that I would have had a section on shading in a beginning book.

And the suggestion to start a drawing with an eyeball and working your way around is just a really bad way to learn to draw.

Through the rest of this book, the author never once talks about under drawings, structure, drawing through forms, tone, and other essentials to good draftsmanship.

As good as the first half of the book is, it doesn't actually teach you good draftsmanship. It becomes perfectly obvious as the book goes on, that the author doesn't have the draftsmanship skills herself to be able to teach academic drawing. She can't teach what she doesn't know.

How to Use This Book

There's a section at the beginning of this book that tells you how to use it. I'm not repeating that information here. Instead, I'm writing how I recommend you use this book.

This book compliments The Drawing Website really well. Especially the first few chapters and the first few lessons.

I recommend you read through the book. There may, very well be, many things in it that click for you in ways that my info doesn't. That said, I'd give special focus to what is said in the first few chapters up to Lesson 2. Take the tests to see what level you're at. Do the exercises until you can get to level 2 in this book.

Do ALL the exercises in Lesson 1. Then read and do everything in Lesson 2 up to the "Leo the Lion" exercise and stop there. DON'T do the "Leo the Lion" exercise. I wouldn't do the exercises from this point on. It's in fact, teaching you bad drawing habits.

By the time you get to Lesson 2 you'll be ready to take things to the next level here at The Drawing Website. If you've done the exercises in this book and the exercises in The Drawing Website, you're in fantastic shape. You're ready to learn some fantastic advanced stuff.

I recommend this book for anyone who doesn't think he can draw, or parents with children whom you want to encourage.

If my site is not giving you enough to work with, get this book. It will add to what I've already written and will give you more exercises and even games you can play to help you draw.

I DO like A LOT of the info in here, I just don't like all of it. It's definitely worth owning.

Drawing With Children: A Creative Method for Adult Beginners, Too

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Formulas – An Introduction to Drawing Shorthand

December 19, 2012 in Beginners, Lvl 0

"The number one benefit of information technology is that it empowers people to do what they want to do. It lets people be creative. It lets people be productive. It lets people learn things they didn't think they could learn before, and so, in a sense, it is all about potential." ~Steve Ballmer

 

Formulas – An Introduction to Drawing Shorthand

The Secret Of Ease.

Some draftsmen are really good  at drawing fast. They sit down and just crank their drawings out.

Watching them draw is like magic, especially when they have a special style they draw in.

When you watch those draftsmen draw, it's like a performance.  Why is that?

Well, for one thing it's practice and experience. It comes from drawing, experimenting and making lots and lots of mistakes.

BUT, there's something more-- something that I've never actually heard anyone mention and I don't know why.

Perhaps it's because no one has ever bothered to articulate it the way I'm about to.

You see, after you've been drawing for a while, and you learn from teachers and books, after you've done your experimenting and begin to get more and more confident, you start developing what I call a "shorthand."

What's a shorthand? It's what I'm going to be writing about in this post. So let's get to it.

What A Shorthand Is

Simply put, a drawing "shorthand" is the simplification of a "drawing formula."

What's a drawing formula?

A drawing formula, is the solutions a draftsman has come up with, that solve a drawing problem.

At first, drawing is difficult because you have no solutions to drawing problems. The more you draw, the more solutions you develop.  Often, times teachers or books give you prepackaged solutions.

In Kung Fu, you learn what are called "forms." A series of consecutive movements that make up martial moves. Drawing formulas are like that.

You learn these prepackaged solutions and it speeds up the drawing process.  You end up drawing better, faster. The better you get at using those solutions, the better you're drawings will be.

Once a formula is repeated so often that it becomes almost an instinct, you begin to skip steps in the the drawing formulas you use. Your mind makes a type of "short hand" out of it.  You are still thinking about the steps but are not necessarily drawing all the steps.

If you have multiple teachers or read multiple books, you end up learning MANY formulas and lot's of different solutions to drawing problems.

The trick with these solutions is to find the ones that work best for you. The ones that solve the worst drawing problems fastest. This is done through trial and error, as well as implementation of the formulas, learning the formulas well, and using them.

When you do this long enough, something interesting starts to happen. If you've learned multiple problem solving formulas, your mind begins to mix them up. You begin to combine them, mold them into something new that works even better for you.

Suddenly, you've developed a new shorthand unique to you, based on your experiences with drawing and the formulas you've learned over the years. Someone watching you draw can't really figure out what part of what formula you're using. It looks like magic.

This creates YOUR formula, your shorthand,  your voice, your style. You have a prepackaged solution that helps you speed up the drawing process and help you solve whatever new drawing problem comes your way.

You now know the secret to drawing. The thing that will help you take the fastest steps forward.

Learn the solutions to drawing problems that great artists before you have discovered. Practice them, apply them, assimilate them, make them your own.

Stand on the shoulders of giants.

Examples Formulas and Short Hand

(The links to the books below are affiliate links.)

Here's an example of head formulas.  You often see this sort of thing in drawing books.

The first example is a head drawing formula from Andrew Loomis, from his book Drawing the Head and Hands:

Loomis head Formula

There are quite a few steps here. If you use the formula above enough and begin to assimilate it, you end up developing a short hand from it.

It may end up looking something like this:

Loomis heads shorthand

All the steps are there in my head, I just didn't draw them all out.

Here's another example of a head drawing formula. This one comes from George Bridgman's book Bridgman's Complete Guide to Drawing from Life:

Bridgman Head Formula

This formula is different in that the head is made out of straight lines.

Once you master his formula, you might end up with a shorthand that looks like this:

Bridgman Head Shorthand

Once again, all the steps are still there in my mind, they just aren't there on paper.

I must emphasize that you shouldn't rush to "short hand".  Always work through the full formula until it becomes part of you. You'll find the short hand will simply begin to happen.

If you rush and don't learn the formulas well, your drawings will always seem off. They won't have a solid foundation at their core.

What You Should Pursue

There is no need to get as complicated right now as the examples above.  My advice for you, right now, is simply to look at cartoons and characters you like and try cataloging their body parts.

Copy them. Make a note of their eyes, mouths ears...etc.  What strange shapes do they make. What are they made of?

It should look something like this:

Cartoon Details

They don't have to be perfect. Simply get used to copying.  Get the hang of it.

Begin to create a library of your favorite cartoon drawing solutions.

Why do this? Formulas tend get complicated. Simply copying and learning features and small body parts help you achieve "small victories" that will motivate you to move forward.  You will be training your eyes to "see" better by copying and you'll be training you hands to draw what you're seeing.

There's no better way to learn these things than copying. From this point on, you'll be doing a lot of it.

Trouble?

Q: You talked a lot about formulas but you didn't actually teach us any. What gives?  I though you were teaching us to draw!

A: I am, but I want you to learn to teach yourself first. Observe. Become independent. Experiment.

Level 1 lessons will be all about formulas. This final Level 0 Bonus Lesson was written to prepare you for what's to come.

Pro Tip

Quite honestly, my best pro tip at this point is to copy.

Copy, copy, copy.

Learn to see. Learn to make judgments. Try to find formulas.

There will be a special copying chapter in Level 1 but begin now.  You won't regret it.

Questions?

I can’t help you if you don’t ask.

What’s your burning formula questions?

Is there something you understand about formulas or short hand? Ask.

I’ll give you my best answer and, who knows, probably write a post about it.

Leave any comments and questions in the comments below.

Or better yet, sign up to receive more information via e-mail. You’ll get extra tips and advice.  You can ask me questions that way also.

 

 

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Designing Super Basic Compositions.

December 5, 2012 in Beginners, Lvl 0

"I find a single focus in the scene and then play everything off that one thing." - Kenn Backhaus

What's Missing?

So you've learned the basics of design and you're drawing fairly decent looking cartoons.

Then you try actually drawing a picture and it looks like something a five year old drew.  You haven't got the slightest idea why. The answer is very simple.

Composition.

It's not enough to design the characters on the page, you also have to design the page. This might seem like a very odd statement but it's in perfect keeping with what I've shared with you so far about design.

This time, I'm going to share with you how to use those design principles and other principles, to compose a picture that looks cool.

This is going to be REALLY basic.  This topic, like color, is HUGE. There's far too much write about here.  In this post, I'm only going to give you a tiny taste of how you should be thinking about designing composition to get you started.

What is Composition?

The way I see it, composition is all about directing the viewer's gaze where you want it to go within the picture.  To do this you have to DESIGN the space in such a way, that the viewer's eyes go where you want it too.  So composition, is in fact, all about design.

And what is the secret to good design?

THE secret to GOOD design is harmonizing contrast and balance <= CLICK TO TWEET

Breaking up Space

Our gaze naturally goes to the center of the page. It is the easier type of compositional placement you can create. But this may cause problems. I will get to that in a bit.

As human beings, when we're drawing something, our natural tendency is to try to make everything symmetrical. Just like it was with the stick figures in Lesson 3. We want everything to be spaced out evenly and be made to look exactly the same.

This has its place. If you look at icons, symbols and early paintings, they are very symmetrical.  There's something appealing and beautiful about the balance in symmetry. The apparent "perfection" in symmetry.

There's nothing really wrong with that. The problem is when symmetry is used when it shouldn't be.

For example, our natural tendency is to put the center of interest in our drawing or even our photographs, right smack in the middle of the frame. Like this:

When we're beginning draftsmen, we do this.  We split the page in half and put the center of interest right in the middle.

This is just our natural tendency, but the problem is that, just as a perfectly balanced designs with no contrast tend to be boring, so are most drawings composed this way.

Introducing Contrast

This all gets fixed by introducing a bit of our old friend, contrast.

Let's take for  example a very basic drawing where you're going to draw a line for the ground. Where do you usually put it? Right smack in the middle, splitting the drawing in half.

Boring.

Instead, let's start by playing  favorites. Lets put the line either above the mid-point:

Or below the mid-point:

Now you have contrast. One side dominates. It's bigger, while the other side is much smaller. You have now created interest.

Breaking Up the Space with Shapes

So if you don't put your center of interest (the thing you want people to look at) in the middle, where do you put it?

Well...off center.

Depending on how big or how far off center you move the center of interest though, it can become off balance. If it's off balance, it will feel strange to the viewer and be dubbed ugly.

So for example, if you put the center of interest on the left, then you have to have something on the right to balance it out. Whatever you use to balance the drawing will often be around the same size and distance away from the main center of interest.

Very much like a scale with the center of the picture acting like a fulcrum:

If the center of interest is going to be larger in the shot or smaller, you'll probably need to balance that as well. You do this by placing the objects in such a way that, if they were to be put on a scale, they would balance:

The big object above is closer to the fulcrum while the smaller needs to be further away to balance it out.

Here's the Balancing, in Action

So here's what it would look like with actual drawings. I took these drawings from a BLACK TERROR KID comic I did for fun a few years ago.

In Figure 1 below, we have a low horizon and the two characters in the shot are both off center but are balanced:

Figure 1

Figure 2 below shows the how the scales balance the picture out:

Figure 2.

Figure 3 below is a much more dynamic angle. One character is closer to the camera making him bigger while the other is further way, making him smaller.

In order to balance out these two contrasting sizes, I had to place the characters in different places on the "scale:

Figure 3.

Figure 4 below shows the example of the scale and how the sizes balance out on them.

Figure 4.

Your Exercise

I'm sure by this point, you're drawing all kinds of things in margins, and any kind of sheet of paper you can find.

Simply what I want you to do, is when you're drawing environments or places with ground planes, DON'T split the picture frame in half.

Practice putting the center of interest somewhere other than the center of the frame and find ways to balance it with some other object in the picture.

I'm sure at this point, you're having all kinds of fun messing around with drawing pictures.

Trouble?

Q: I'm not sure about the whole using a "scale" thing. Does that mean I have to draw a scale every time I draw something?

A: No, the scale was simply an illustration of the thinking involved when you're attempting to balance a composition.  Most of the time, adjusting the balance of a composition is done intuitively.

Also, the objects that are put in balance do not have to be the same kind of object.  If you draw a character as one object, the balancing object doesn't have to be another character, it can be a house, a tree, a chair,...whatever. As long as the objects FEEL like they're balancing each other.

Pro Tip

This is not even the tip of the iceberg on Composition. The subject is too vast. I HAD to pick at least ONE thing to share with you about composition.

Here's another, very quick tip.  See the header picture up on top of my Kung Fu Character Pen Grier? Notice there's just a bunch of arrows in the drawing pointing to her face? Even her finger is pointing at her face. That's another way to think about composition:

Every element in the drawing should point to the center of interest.  Not so obviously as I did in my picture. I drew it that way to make this point (no pun intended).

If you're subtle about it, you can have everything in a drawing harmoniously point, like a bunch of arrows, to where you want the viewer to look and no one will even notice.

For example, take a close look at this picture. See if you can find all the "arrows" pointing at the character in red:

Questions?

I can’t help you if you don’t ask.

What’s your burning composition questions?

Is there something you’ve always wanted to know about composition? Ask.

I’ll give you my best answer and, who knows,  probably write a post about it.

Leave any comments and questions in the comments below.

Or better yet, sign up to receive more information via e-mail. You’ll get extra tips and advice.  You can ask me questions that way also.

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Unicorn Style – How Simple Color Theory Helps Design.

November 21, 2012 in Beginners, Lvl 0

The whole world, as we experience it visually, comes to us through the mystic realm of color. Our entire being is nourished by it. The mystic quality of color should likewise find expression in a work of art. - Hans Hofmann

Why Color?

If you're into fashion, you know color is important.

If you're into interior design, you know that color is important.

If you study paintings, you know that color is important.

If you're not really into any of that stuff you're saying to yourself,

"Color? So what?"

You'd be surprised how a little color knowledge could change the way you see the world around you.  Everything is in color and those colors have an effects on your mood, thoughts and actions.

Color is a very powerful force and lots have been said and written about it.

In this post, we'll start at the beginning.  We'll simplify it down to its most basic principles. The foundations of what you need to know about color.

You've been taught about basic design and the decisions you make when applying those principles to a drawing.  But all those principles apply to color as well.  Knowing the basics of colors will give you the foundations for choosing colors that will make your drawings sing.

The Color Wheel

Color theory is a theory for a reason. None of this is an absolute. There are many theories of color. The theory I'll be writing about is the one most beginning artists learn at first.

It's the basic theory that all the other theories tend to compare themselves with.

The color wheel is the standard way most artists use to understand color and it will become clear why as we go. So let's begin:

Primary Colors

The theory of primary colors is that these three colors are the main colors that all other colors stem from.  The idea is that these three colors cannot be created using other colors. These are THE colors.

The Primary colors are: Red, Blue, and Yellow.

 

 

Secondary Colors

Mixing the three primary colors together get you the secondary colors.

Here are the mixing formulas and the secondary colors they create:

  • Red + Yellow = Orange
  • Yellow + Blue = Green
  • Blue + Red = Purple

Neutral Grey is in the middle of the wheel because if you mix all the colors (or all the primaries) together, you end up with neutral Grey.

Tertiary Colors

Tertiary colors are the offspring of the Primary and the Secondary colors.

They often have very generic names that give away what was mixed to get the color.  Here they are:

  • Red Orange
  • Yellow Orange
  • Yellow Green
  • Blue Green
  • Blue Purple
  • Red Purple

Not very original names, huh?

Color Divisions

Colors are often divided into two types: Cool Colors and Warm Colors.

Cool Colors

Cool colors are mostly dominated by the Primary color blue. The feel of these colors are often soothing and calm. These colors often tend to recede in space.

Warm Colors

Warm colors are often dominated by the TWO Primary colors Red and Yellow.  This causes them to have a higher range than cool colors.

Warm colors often have  a lot of energy and pop out more than cool colors.

Color Harmonies

Color harmonies are exactly what you think they are, colors that work harmoniously together. Knowing what they are, will give you short cuts to color combinations you would like to use.

The trick with color is NOT to use ALL the colors in one drawing. Instead, it's best to limit the colors you use.  Limit colors to a small group that work well together and experiment from there.

Monochromatic Color Range

First, let's talk about simply using ONE color.

Simply by tinting or darkening a single color you can get a great value of colors.  This is the ultimate harmonious color scheme.  All the colors in this group are guaranteed to look good together.

Just be aware that, as far as coloring something goes, it can be a tad dull.

Complimentary Colors

Complimentary colors are opposite each other on the color wheel.

For example:

  • Red and Green are complimentary.
  • Purple and Yellow are complimentary
  • Blue and Orange are complimentary

 

Complimentary colors are to each other what Black and White are to each other, opposites. They are called "complimentary" because, just as putting a white dot in a black background would make the white dot stand out, the equivalent can be done with complimentary colors.

So just to clarify: Complimentary colors are opposite colors to each other. They make each other stand out.

These colors are often used in moderation in a picture where you want the audiences' eyes to go.

Analogous Colors

Analogous colors are colors that are next to each other on the color wheel. These colors are used when you want a larger range of colors but still want the unifying feel of the a monochromatic colors scheme.

Example

Here's a sample of a drawing I did a long time ago:

Notice how the whole picture is mostly Monochromatic, with a touch of Analogous colors in order to unify the picture.  But when it comes to the protagonist in the middle, he's wearing a red shirt, which is complimentary to green, in order to draw the eye.

Experiment

Color is tricky to wrap your  head around if you don't use it. The best way to start getting a handle on it is to start coloring stuff.

So here's what I think you ought to do: when you doodle or draw your characters as I've shared with you how to do, color them.

Experiment.

Try to color your characters monochromatic or by using analogous colors.

Color your characters using only primary colors or secondary colors. What are the results like?

Mess around, play around.  See what happens.

It's the best way to learn.

Trouble?

Q: What's the best tool to use to color with?

A: This is really up to what you feel most comfortable with or quite frankly, what you have around the house. But here is my suggestion, if you really need an answer:

Color Pencils.

They are easy to control. They don't give you the brightest and best colors, but they get the job done and you can experiment with them all you want and feel comfortable doing it.

Pro Tip

Limiting your palette is the best way to go.  Don't use every color you've got.  Think about design. Remember the whole: Harmonizing Balance and Contrast thing from Lesson 3?

What you want to do is, get a group of colors that work well together like monochromatic colors or analogous colors (Balance) and then pick a few places in the drawing to stick in some complimentary colors (Contrast). Doing this just right will result in a well designed color scheme.

Questions?

I can’t help you if you don’t ask.

What’s your burning color questions?

Is there something you’ve always wanted to know about color? Ask.

I’ll give you my best answer and, who knows,  probably write a post about it.

Leave any comments and questions in the comments below.

Or better yet, sign up to receive more information via e-mail. You’ll get extra tips and advice.  You can ask me questions that way also.

 

 

 

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