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You are browsing the Blog for Intermediate

Draw Fu Perspective Secrets – The 5 Basic Principles You Should Know.

January 7, 2015 in Intermediate, Lvl 1

Getting Some Perspective

Draw Fu Perspective SecretsYou don't want to learn perspective.  You want to be able to use perspective but you don't want to learn it.

Learning it brings to mind, rulers, math, precision tools and all kinds of things that feel completely and totally uncreative. Well, you wouldn't be wrong.  It can very well be like that.

I know first hand.  I took a drafting class in high school where we had to make these very precise 3D shapes and it stunk. On top of that, I wasn't very good at it.

But never  fear, I'm here to tell you there's hope.

How would you like to learn the minimum amount of perspective knowledge to get by?  There's only a few things you really need to know and they all follow logically from each other.  You don't really need to know everything about perspective when you're drawing cartoons.

Also, when you draw, you have to keep perspective in mind but you don't start off with it right away.

In this lesson, you're going to, not only learn the minimum amount of perspective knowledge you need to know to get by, but I'll even show you how to begin with a drawing only somewhat thinking about perspective, and then find the perspective, in it.

I will also share with you what I think is the most important perspective principle you should know, that will change the way you view perspective.

Here, you will learn how to make your cartoons work in 3D space without having to deal with math.  Although, yes, you might need to take out a ruler.

So if you're ready, let's get to it.

There is No Spoon

Perspective is the art of tricking people into thinking they are seeing a drawing in three dimensional space.

Depth in a drawing is just an illusion.  You're not drawing anything three dimensional, you're merely pretending to do so.  You're just drawing flat graphic shapes on a flat piece of paper but you're making it seem like your drawings have depth.

You don't really need any rulers of fancy perspective tricks to do this.  Depth is as simple to create as putting one large shape in front of a small shape.  Like this:

Overlapping shapes 01

When something is closer to view, it's often bigger. When something is further away, it's often smaller. It causes the smaller shapes to look as if they're further back in space.

And when you do the opposite, and put one larger shape in front of a smaller, it gives the illusion of "scale":

Overlapping shapes 02

By simply overlapping two shapes of different sizes, you can easily create the illusion of depth without the need of any fancy perspective tricks.

Go ahead and try it out. Draw a flat shape and then draw a smaller shape "behind it."  Do the same with two small shape overlapping a big shape.

Congratulation! You've just created the illusion of depth.

Up to this point we've been content with only drawing flat "two dimensional"  looking shapes. But in order to move forward with out cartooning, we need to learn to draw more complex "three dimensional" looking shapes.

In order to better understand how to do this well, we need a basic understanding of those fancy perspective tricks I spoke about earlier. These tricks eventually come in handy when you want to create depth in a slightly more complex way, using more complex shapes.

So let's begin with the basics of perception...

See Water My Friend

The most basic, and most important concept you must learn when working with perspective is the idea of the "Horizon Line."  It's a line you draw horizontally across the drawing that defines where the horizon of the drawing is.

The Horizon Line is basically your point of view, the viewer's eye line or the point of view of the imaginary "camera" that is perceiving the drawing.  The purpose of this line is to define what is above the Horizon Line and what is below it.

The reason you need to know this is so you can more accurately draw three dimensional shapes in space.

The principle is very simple:

  • Anything you are seeing BELOW the Horizon Line, you are looking down at.
  • Anything you are seeing ABOVE the Horizon Line, you are looking up at.

My father, a Background designer on the animated sitcom King of the Hill, once made this very helpful analogy:

Imagine you're standing next to an enormous, glass tank of water that takes up your field of view.  The world inside the tank is flooded up to your eyeballs with water splitting your vision evenly.

The water level is the Horizon Line. The glass of the tank is your picture plane, or drawing surface.

Anything in the water is below the Horizon Line, anything above the water is above the Horizon Line:

Perpective Horizon Line as water example

Yes, this is REALLY basic. But professional artists and amateurs often forget or ignore this simple thing and their work suffers for it.

Actively applying this basic Horizon Line principle will make your drawings more accurate right away.  Even if you're NOT drawing a background or environment.  Understanding this basic Horizon Line principle is essential to drawing solid characters, or people. Cartoony or otherwise.

Case in point.  How's this for irony--here's the header drawing I drew for the Lvl 1 lesson on art supplies:

The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal – Art Supplies

I was never really satisfied with the drawing but I didn't know why. I couldn't put my finger on it.

What I'm going to show you, I discovered, when I wanted to find an example of a drawing I had done where I messed up a drawing because I had not used a Horizon Line and therefore had not followed the principle.  I went looking through some old drawings and although there were many bad drawings, I needed one that highlighted that specific mistake best.

Then I saw the art supplies header drawing and it dawned on me why I hadn't been completely satisfied with it.  I didn't place a Horizon Line in the drawing.  I didn't even have one in mind and it shows.  It doesn't follow the Horizon Line principle!

The sad part is, I didn't do this on purpose, it is truly an honest mistake on my part, caused by rushing through the drawing without stopping long enough to decide on a Horizon Line.

It makes for a perfect teaching moment, and now you benefit from it.

So let's take a good look at the drawing and break down what's wrong with it.

Let's see if we can find some sort of clue as to where the Horizon Line ought to be.  If we're going by the perspective of the table, we can backwards engineer where the Horizon Line is:

Finding the Horizon Line 01

Finding the Horizon Line 02

BUT if we were going by the "clues" given to us by the clothes on the woman, the Horizon Line ought to be rather low since we seem to be looking up at her. See how we're looking into her sleeve, how her belt is wrapping around away from us and how we're seeing slightly underneath her blouse which also wraps away from us.  Even her collar does this:

Finding the Horizon Line 03

Not only that but the rack on the wall with the pens is completely flat with no perspective and offers no clues as to where the Horizon Line is.

So is the Horizon Line low or high? Well, if I was to choose, I would want it to be high in this case.

Let's go with the Horizon Line we got from the table. But if that's the case, then what needs to happen with the details on the clothes of the woman?

"Anything you are seeing BELOW the Horizon Line, you are looking down at."

In other words, it's in "the water." We have to change the direction of all the details of the clothes so that we're looking down on them NOT up.  Like this:

Perspective fix

That makes a big difference.  Now she looks like she belongs in the environment rather than looking like she was just pasted in front of it.

Do you see how important a Horizon Line is to a drawing?  A Horizon Line helps dictate the direction of details in a drawing. It's a wise idea to take the time to put it in. Otherwise you might end up with an odd drawing like I did.

There's also another very important use of the Horizon Line that has to do with character placement, but before I get into that I need to talk a little bit about Vanishing Points.

Getting the Point - One Point Perspective

We're only going to deal with two forms of perspective in this lesson:  one point perspective and two point perspective.   There are other types but they aren't used very often. I will save talking about them for another drawing level.

Let's talk about one point perspective.  It's by far the simplest.

A one point perspective view occurs when you're are seeing an object or environment straight on.  For example, if you're looking at the front of a box or looking straight down a hallway or a road.

Next to overlapping shapes, it's the easiest ways to create the illusion of space.  The principles are simple. To create a one point perspective view, first you draw a Horizon Line (hopefully NOT exactly in the middle of the page. For more on that see: Designing Super Basic Compositions.)

Place the Horizon Line

Then as the name implies, you pick a single "point" on the Horizon Line.  This is called the "Vanishing Point."  It's called that because, in a one point perspective drawing, all receding lines "vanish" to that one point.

Here's an example of a vanishing point:

Adding a Vanishing Point

It can be drawn as an "x" or a point. I usually use a point but I drew an "x" here so you can see it better.  I purposely drew it slightly off center, to add just a touch of interest.

All receding lines "vanish" to that point:

Vanishing Point Lines

Lines that do NOT recede in space are drawn perpendicular to the picture plane. In other words, they run Horizontally or Vertically on the page. Like so:

Horizontal and Vertical Lines

Using these basic principles of a single vanishing point with perpendicular Horizontal and Vertical lines, we can create the basic illusion of depth, like the examples below:

One point perspective boxes

It may not seem like much but these basic shapes can be broken down in to more complex shapes:

One point perspective town

One point perspective is simple, straight forward, and very handy.  Complexity can also be added to it, in order to make it more accurate and naturalistic, but I'll save that information for later levels.  For now, it's enough to know how a single vanishing point works.

The only flaw with one point perspective is it's lack of versatility. For that we need to learn two point perspective...

A Different Point

Why use two points instead of one?  Well,we're not always looking at thing straight on.  Most of the time we are looking at things at  "imperfect" angles.  Two Point perspective simulates these imperfect views. It gives a drawing a much more naturalistic dynamism.

Here's the difference between a One Point perspective drawing and a Two Point perspective drawing -- In a Two Point perspective drawing, the lines that used to run Horizontally in a One Point perspective shot, now recede to their own point.

That's it. There's really nothing more too it than that.  So for example, instead of the Horizontal lines doing this:

One point horizontal line grid

They recede to their own point like this:

Two Point perspective grid

Notice that the two points are in opposite sides of the frame.  It's best to keep both vanishing point  far away from each other. If two vanishing points are too close, you'll end up with a really distorted drawing.

A good rule of thumb is, unless you're drawing something small, it's best to keep one vanishing point in the picture frame, while putting the second vanishing point off the page.

Here's an example with a drawing of a small box:

Two point perspective small box

In this case the box is small enough so that no distortion occurs. But if we were to make the box bigger:

Two Point perspective large box distortion

It looks odd. So what I need to do here, is to put the vanishing point as far away as I can. This means, it would no longer be on the page:

Two Point Perspective large box vanishing point off the page

There are many different ways to draw a vanishing point off the page.

One way would be to tape your drawing down using removable tape on your drawing table. That way the drawing doesn't move.  Then with a large ruler follow the horizon line off the paper. Place a Sticky Note somewhere along that line and draw the vanishing point on it.

The key is to have the vanishing point always line up with the horizon line.  As long as you've managed that, you should be good.

There are many ways to draw vanishing points off the page.  I  can't name all of them here.  I'll give you my favorite way later on.

Believe it or not, we're done with the major "technical" stuff. This is enough information for you to start using perspective in your drawings.  However there are some very important practical tips about using Horizon Lines, which I need to address, before we move on.

Awesome Draw Fu Perpective Secret

Alright, get ready to get your mind blown because this is the reason I wrote this chapter.

When I wrote about the Horizon Line earlier I mentioned something about a, "very important use of the Horizon Line that has to do with character placement." I'm going to share this with you now.

So far, all the info I've written, you can get anywhere else.  But what I'm about to share is sometimes mentioned or addressed in other places but it's hardly ever emphasized.  I think that's a HUGE mistake.

I think this is perhaps THE most important thing you ought to take away from this chapter.  But I couldn't really share it with you until I had written the stuff above, because it works in tandem with everything else.

When I realized how to work with the principle I'm about to share with you, it made working with perspective so much easier. Okay so here's the principle:

A person or object, if drawn on a FLAT plane (not on a hill or valley,) will ALWAYS be crossed by the Horizon Line, on the same spot on it's body, whether they are in the foreground, mid ground or background. <=CLICK TO TWEET

Okay, so what does that mean? What does it look like? I'll show you...

Say we draw a Horizon Line and we have this character here:

Character and Horizon line

Say we want to move the character forward in space so he's closer to the foreground.

Normally I see perspective books show you how you draw perspective lines from the vanishing point and cross the character at the top and bottom to find where the character ought to land. Like this:

Enlarging a character using vanishing points

That's one way to do it. But there's a few problems with this method.  What if the line goes off the page like it did with  this drawing? You'll need to add an extra piece of paper to see the whole connection point.

It can also be a bit inaccurate. In fact, if you look closely, you will see that I just broke my little principle.  The Horizon Line is NOT crossing the character in the same spot in mid ground and foreground:

Enlarging a character using vanishing points Error

The much easier way is to forget about drawing the vanishing point lines (they get in the way) and simply enlarge the character to the size you want him and have the Horizon Line cross him at the same spot it crossed him when he was in the mid ground:

Horizon line crossing the character

The drawing above is far more accurate and less "technical." This principle  is called, "Hanging a character on the Horizon Line."

No matter where the character is in space, the Horizon Line will always cross the character in the same spot on his body. In the drawing below, it's the top of the character's sash.

Hanging a character on the horizon line

You DON'T need to draw a any lines coming from the Vanishing Point to do this.  All you need is a Horizon Line, and that's it.

This is magic! This is a huge deal. But why? It doesn't seem like that big a deal.

It allows you to have a system of measuring characters and objects in space, quickly and easily, without dealing with all kinds of perspective technicalities.

This is what I mean. Say you have multiple characters in a drawing. Say that they're all standing on a flat plane (no hills, valleys, upstairs or downstairs.)

Now, what if you wanted them all to be spatially apart.  Some characters in the foreground, mid ground, and background.

How do you quickly place the characters in the drawing accurately without it becoming a big perspective mess? Here's how you use the principle...

If you know the size relationship to each of the characters you're using. You place them side by side, and put the Horizon line in:

Character line up with Horizon line

Then you simply blow them up or down, making sure to hang them on the Horizon Line:

Adjusting characters on the Horizon line

On top of that, the added benefit is that you can now rough out background elements to more accurately fit your characters. Making the background work with your characters rather than making the characters work with some random background.

How big should you make the doorway in the background? Shrink the character down and see.  How tall do I make the tabletop in the foreground? Enlarge the character and compare it to him/her:

Creating the background around your characters

But what if you're characters are NOT on a flat plane and some are up or down stairs?

Alright, so there's ways to work with situations like that.  Let's take Pen Grier in the back.  Let's say I want to put her up on the loft in the background.

First thing I have to do is shrink her down so she's a few steps further back. For the sake of this example I left the original version visible so you can see how much smaller I made her. Notice I'm still hanging her on the Horizon Line:

Placing a character on a higher plane

Now, I simply move her up to the loft by moving the drawing up. She's now up on the loft and she's the correct size relative to the background:

Placing a character on a higher plane 02

Once the character is up there, you adjust her details so it looks like you're looking up at her since she is above the Horizon Line. I didn't do so in the example, but it's what I would have done if I was making a finished drawing.

Now let's do the opposite.  Let's take the character in the foreground and say she's one step lower than the other characters.  As if there's a step off screen that we don't see.

Okay, to do this we take the character from our line up and we move her down as if she was a step down.  Below, on the left, you'll see the character in the normal line up and on the right I copied her and moved her down, so you can see and compare:

Placing a character on a lower plane 01

Now that we've done that, it's just a matter of enlarging the character by hanging her on the Horizon Line:

Placing a character on a lower plane 02

There you have it, she's now a step lower.

Alright but that doesn't really answer the trickiest question of them all, what if the Horizon Line is so far up, it doesn't cross the characters?

It's not so difficult as you might think.  Here's an example.  Below we have three copies of Brush Lee. One is a little below the Horizon Line and the two others are much further:

High horizon line characters

Most of the time you'll be dealing with something like the Brush Lee on the far left.  Characters will only miss the Horizon Line by a little.  But on occasion, they may be much further away from the Horizon Line.

The way you deal with it is simple, create an extension of the character that touches the Horizon Line.  Below you will see what I mean:

High horizon line characters extensions

With the Brush Lee on the far left I drew a circle on his head that now crosses the Horizon Line.

The one in the middle, I drew three of them until they crossed the Horizon Line.  I didn't draw a big oval or a box, although I could have.  The reason I chose three circles was because I needed something that gave me details I could hang the drawing on.  If you make something with too few details, it's more difficult to know where to anchor a drawing to the Horizon Line.

On the Brush Lee on the far right, I simply copied and pasted a duplicate on his head.

Now it's just a matter of enlarging or reducing the drawing while hanging the artificial extensions of the character on the Horizon Line:

High horizon line characters moving characters in space

There we go. Then you simple get rid of the extension and you have the character in the correct place in space:

High horizon line characters erasing extensions

Of course you would then have to go in and change all the details on the character so it look like we're looking down on him. I didn't do this in the example but I would if I was drawing a finish piece.

See, isn't that awesome?

You may be wondering if you need a copy machine or something to do this.  The answer is yes.  When working on my drawings on paper I used to spend an hour or two at the copy machine place enlarging and reducing characters so I could do my drawings.

Now a days I also use Photoshop (or the free equivalent Gimp) to do this on the computer and then print them out.  If you don't want to do this you can always  reduce or enlarge you're character's by manually drawing them bigger and smaller after drawing a line up, but it's far less accurate.  It can be done though.  As long as it looks right.

Next we'll get even more practical. We'll use the "hanging characters on the Horizon Line"  principle to backwards engineer a Horizon Line in rough drawings that don't have one...

Practically Applying Perspective Principles

It's one thing to know the mechanics of perspective, it's another thing all together to know how to practically apply them in your creative drawing.

What often happens is, once you learn perspective, you begin you're drawings by drawing all the perspective first. Then you end up with stiff, boring drawings you don't like and never intended. The characters aren't where you wanted them to be and you have no control of your drawing at all.

This gets so frustrating you simply say, "forget perspective I'm gonna draw the way I want!" but then your drawings end up all messed up because the  perspective is wrong.  But when you try to put perspective in the drawing, it ends up looking wrong.

So how are you suppose to start a drawing and actually use perspective so you can get a drawing to do what you want, and have it look right?

This is the question perspective books don't answer.  I'm here to show you one way to do it.  I'm going to show you how you can use everything you've learned so far and put it all together so it can be practically applied.

Here we go...

The first thing you need to know is, don't start with perspective. Keep perspective in mind. Yes, do that, but don't commit to anything absolute at first.

Have  a general idea of where you MIGHT put the Horizon Line but don't commit to putting one down right away.

To illustrate this I'm going to show you how I draw something from scratch.

First I come up with the general idea of what I want.  In this case, I'm going to draw the header picture of this post.  Since it's on perspective, I should show something with some dynamic perspective.

I'm going to need something with multiple characters and a background, that way, I can show a lot of depth and also show some technical background drawing.

Since I've been using three characters, Brush Lee, Pen Grier, and Valentina already, I've decided to use them. Upshots, are always exciting and dynamic so I'm thinking that's the way to go.  This means I'm going to have a low Horizon Line.

Also, to show depth, I'm going to offset each character in space.  One character will be in the foreground, one in the mid ground, and one in the background.

I'll have this take place on a fancy Florentine like bridge. I haven't designed the place completely but I kinda know what it should look like. I'll just wing it.

Alright, so now I have all the information I need to draw a rough scribble pass of the drawing:

  1. Low Horizon Line,
  2. Three characters offset in space,
  3. Fancy Florentine like bridge.

So here's what I came up with:

Beginning a drawing rough pass

Notice I didn't commit to a Horizon Line. I put a ground plane but I did that just as a quick guide.  I knew, the Horizon Line needed to be low. From the "hanging characters on the Horizon Line" principle I know that the Horizon Line would need to cross through the character's legs at some point, but I haven't specified where exactly.

It's a rough gesture drawing, at this point. I'll be talking about gesture in a later lesson. This is just about getting the characters where I want them, in the poses I want them in.

I also knew that the background needed to recede in space and I decided to go with a two point perspective view with one point going off the page. I haven't quite committed to where the Vanishing Point that's on the page is yet, since I don't have a Horizon Line but I angled the background the way I would LIKE it to look once I do find the Vanishing Point.

See, the first thing you need to do is design the drawing the way you want it to look.  Knowing the principles of perspective allows you to "eyeball" or guess where the elements of the drawing might fall, but you should compose the drawing the way you want first.

Once you do that, THEN you can add the perspective and finesse the drawing.

My next step, now that I have the rough how I want it, is to solidify the location of the Horizon Line. To do this, I line up the character ...

Using Modelsheet characters

...and place ONE of them where I want them to be, based on my rough.

Placing a modelsheet character in space

I chose Valentina because it's important that she is exactly the right size, so she fits on the page. Then I place the other characters in their rough spots.

Placing a modelsheet character in space part 2

Time to find the Horizon Line. I compare their legs.  Using the line up as my guide, I'm looking to see if there's a place where the characters' legs line up.  That's where the Horizon Line would be.

Since I drew a ground plane, I started there.  In this case, it turned out to be right. The line didn't pass through the correct part of  Pen Grier's leg so I moved her down so that it would:

Using modelsheets to find the horizon line

I've been doing this kind of thing so long that I tend to make pretty accurate rough guesses.

Now that I have a Horizon Line, I need a vanishing point. I look at the receding lines I made for the background and try to find a place on it that will give me the line I'm looking for.

Following both of my rough vanishing lines, I see there are two possible places where a point can be:

Finding the correct Vanishing point

Now, I have to decide which background angle is the most important one to me. Which one do I want to keep?

I've decided to keep number 1. This will effect my background and I'll have to make adjustments.  But that's okay, that's what the process is for. It's the reason I've kept things rough. I can make changes fast since I haven't drawn anything pretty that I'm not willing to erase.

The other vanishing point is WAY off the page.  In this case I make a vanishing point "star" (don't know what else to call it)...

Using a vanishing point star

...and I move it off the page, making sure to keep the center touching the Horizon Line.

What I'm looking for is a line or lines in the "star" that lines up with my background lines.  That's when I'll know it's in the right spot:

Finding the correct Vanishing point off the page

Once I've committed to a Vanishing Point, it's time to draw a grid. I simply create a vanishing point "star" on the Vanishing Point that's on the page and I'm done. I like doing this because it makes the perspective easier to see and work with at a glance:

Adding a perspective grid

I've got my Horizon Line, my Vanishing Points, and the characters are in place. Now I have to fix that background based on my new grid:

Adjusting a background

It's finally time to finish the drawing, making sure to follow the Horizon Line Principle. This means, we're looking up at most of the things in the drawing, so we need to emphasized that through out:

Second Rough Pass of characters

I'm using some very advanced shapes. I'll cover shape making in the next lesson. For now what you need to understand is that I'm drawing these shapes to conform with the Horizon Line and Vanishing Points I've established.

You can see that I have the character design model under the drawing as a guide.  I created the character design models for this purpose and so I can always see a definitive version of what the character looks like.  It helps a lot.

Also note that I've adjusted the background a bit.  I tried to move the building away from Brush Lee. I wanted his pose to be clear and uncluttered.

Once I'm happy with the rough shapes, I do yet another tighter pass, clarifying the details on the character.  Making sure to reinforce the Horizon Line and the Vanishing Points with the character details:

third Rough Pass of characters

I was still using the character models as a guide, although I changed Pen Grier and Brush Lee's costume.

Below is what it looks like with all the roughs and models taken away.  I tried to make sure that all the details on the characters reinforced the idea that we're looking up at them:

third Rough Pass of characters clearer

The next step is to refine and add details to the background:

Rough Background pass

This was a tough background to do.  I had something very specific in mind.  It was tough to make it work right.  In the end it turned out okay.

There's a few things I will note about working on this particular background.  I'm NOT going to use any perspective tricks that I didn't write about in this lesson.

For example, there are ways to make make receding windows and pillars look right in perspective. I didn't show you how to do this, so I will not use it.  Instead, when I clean up the background, I'll simply "eye ball," the windows and pillars.  I'll place them where they look right. This will make the drawing "less accurate," but if it looks right, who cares?

The other thing I want you to note is that in order to make sure the arches and details of the background were the right height, I shrunk down the character models and compared them to what I was drawing. Below, I'll point out where I did this:

Characters as guides

When reducing and placing the Model Sheets I used the "hanging characters on the Horizon Line," principle.

Now it's time to put in the final line:

Final pass

For all of you who are newer at drawing, please note how many versions of the characters I drew before getting to the final line. Also, note how long a process it was to get all the elements in place before I started to finish off the drawing.  I didn't simply start with a final drawing, I built it up over many, many steps.

Drawing isn't easy. Anyone can learn to draw, yes. But the process itself is a lot of work.

And that's how we put all the perspective principles to practical use when doing a drawing.

The thing about learning perspective is that, as long as you're drawing anything, whether it's cartoony or naturalistic, as long as you're creating an illusion of space, you'll ALWAYS be using it.  It's better to get used to the idea and commit to using it now so it becomes second nature.

Your Exercise

If you didn't understand that last part, that's okay.  You will later.  For now let's do some exercises which will help you understand the principles I've explained so far.

First let's work on your one point perspective.

  1. Get a sheet of paper.
  2. Draw a straight line somewhere slightly off center of the page using a colored pencil, Either above the center or below it. This is your Horizon Line.
  3. Draw a small dot slightly off center on the Horizon Line. This will be your Vanishing Point.
  4. Using a ruler, and a different colored pencil that doesn't match the Horizon Line color, LIGHTLY draw a bunch of lines off the center of the Vanishing Point, like a star. Try to keep these lines close together.
  5. Without using a ruler, draw three boxes on the page, using the Vanishing Point and the lines emanating from it.  One above the Horizon Line, One below the Horizon Line, and one on the Horizon Line. If you find you're having fun doing this, feel free to keep drawing boxes. Fill the page with them.

When you're done, it should look something like this:

One point perspective boxes

Now let's practice two point perspective.

  • Get a sheet of paper.
  • Draw a straight line somewhere slightly off center of the page using a colored pencil, Either above the center or below it. This is your Horizon Line.
  • Draw two small dots on opposite ends of the page. Each dot should be near the edge of the paper. These will be your Vanishing Points.
  • Using a ruler, and two different colored pencils that don't match each other or the Horizon Line color, LIGHTLY draw a bunch of lines off the center of each Vanishing Point, like a star. Try to keep these lines close together.
  • Without using a ruler, draw three boxes on the page, using the two Vanishing Points and the lines emanating from them.  One above the Horizon Line, One below the Horizon Line, and one on the Horizon Line. If you find you're having fun doing this, feel free to keep drawing boxes. Fill the page with them.

When you're done, it should look something like this:

Two point perspective boxes

Now let's practice hanging characters on a Horizon Line. For this exercise, you may want to have a copier or a scanner and printer handy.  Or you can do this all digitally using Photoshop or Gimp.

  1. Draw a simple cartoon character made out of flat shapes from your imagination.
  2. Next draw a Horizon Line across the character.
  3. Enlarge the character and place it on the page with the Horizon Line crossing the character at the same point of it's body as the original.
  4. Reduce the character and place it on the page with the Horizon Line crossing the character at the same point of it's body as the original.
  5. Reduce the character one more time and do number 4 again.

It should look something like this when you're done:

Hanging character on the Horizon Line exercise

Finally, let's practice finding the Horizon Line in a drawing, using the "Hanging a character on the Horizon Line" Principle.

Where should the Horizon Lines be place in the drawings below?

Find the horizon line

Once you think you've found the answer, click the links below to check if you've got it right:

ANSWER

If these exercises aren't enough for you and you want to keep practicing, go right ahead.  You can create variations of these exercises.  For example you can combine them by creating an environment of boxes and populating them with characters whose sizes vary by hanging them on the Horizon Line.

Or draw the characters first and THEN create the environment based on them.

Also there's no reason why you can't add details to the boxed and make them buildings or interiors.

Have fun. Be creative.

Pro Tip

A fast way to solve perspective problems for your analog drawings is to make a grid.

Simply get a sheet of 11x14 paper or bigger, then draw a Horizon Line across the middle. Make sure that the Horizon Line is a different color than the rest of the grid lines:

Creating and using a grid (1)

Then draw two Vanishing Points on opposite sides of the sheet and create a grid:

Creating and using a grid (2)

Once you have this it's easy to use.  If you have a sketch you want to add perspective onto, simply put the grid under your drawing and using a light box, find the spot in your sketch you want to draw the Horizon Line at. Make sure to use a different color line to distinguish your Horizon Line from the rest of the grid on your drawing:

Creating and using a grid (3)

After the Horizon Line is placed, to find the first Vanishing Point, slide the grid around under the paper until you find a good place to put it. Draw a grid off of that. I like using a different color for the lines off this vanishing point:

Creating and using a grid (4)

Creating and using a grid (5)

Now here's the important part, you can then MOVE the grid around under the drawing again to find the second Vanishing Point. You're not obligated to use the distance of the Vanishing Points on your grid. Depending on the drawing, they might be too close together or too far apart. You can move it farther and closer, depending on what looks right.

Using this grid makes finding Vanishing Points that are off your page easier:

Creating and using a grid (6)

Once you're happy with the location, you draw out the grid on your page. I use yet another color for lines emanating from the second Vanishing Point:

Creating and using a grid (7)

And you're ready to finish your drawing:

Creating and using a grid (8)

I hope this tip helps you out and speeds up your perspective drawings as much as it has done mine.

Questions?

I can’t help you if you don’t ask.

What’s your burning perspective questions?

Is there something you’ve always wanted to know about perspective? Ask.

I’ll give you my best answer and, who knows,  probably write a post about it.

Leave any comments and questions in the comments below.

Or better yet, sign up to receive more information via e-mail. You’ll get extra tips and advice.  You can ask me questions that way also.

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The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal – Art Supplies

October 15, 2014 in Intermediate, Lvl 1

The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal

The Secret of the Draw Fu Arsenal – Art SuppliesWelcome to the arsenal. It's time to start revealing to you the secrets weapons of Draw Fu.

It's time for you to look inside that secret little box or bag that draftsmen walk around with which have so many mysterious pencils, markers, pens brushes, and even razor blades.

It's also time to take a look at "The Tome," you know the one. It's more commonly called, "The Sketchbook."

By the time you're done reading this, you'll be ready to have you're own Draw Fu arsenal.

Why Bother With Drawing Tools

But why now? In the Choose Your Practice Weapons lesson for Lvl 0 I said, you don't need fancy drawing supplies.

This is true.

I also said, It’s not the tools used that makes a good drawing- it’s the skill of the draftsman.  <=CLICK TO RETWEET

Also very true.

So why am I suddenly talking about drawing tools?  Simple, because good drawing tools make it easier.

That's it.  No mystery.  They simply make it easier to get the results you want.

You can drive a nail into wood just as easily with a rock as with a hammer, but it's much easier and more accurate with a hammer.

There's also the added benefit of the unique effects you can get from specialized drawing tools.

But why now? Why tell you about these tools now, if all your going to be learning is cartoons?

Because this is the perfect time to learn about this stuff.  This is the time you can experiment the most.  Remember, there is no right way to draw cartoons. So you can experiment with all these tools without the fear of ruining anything.

You might drop ink on something or smudge something.  That's okay, this is the time to do it.  This is the time to mess up the most with the tools.

You get better at drawing and get better at using fancy tools at the same time.  So if you decided to take your work to the next level, you'll be comfortable with all the drawing tools you'll be using.

Expense

Now, a word on expense.

This stuff does cost money. If you want to make drawing you're hobby of choice OR if you want to make it you're career, you'll need to invest in art supplies.

The money you spend is like the time you spend. It's an investment in yourself.

If this is for your hobby then you're investing in your personal growth as well as the sheer fun of using the art supplies (and trust me, some of this stuff is super fun to use.)

But if this is your career, not only do you get the personal growth and fun but, you're investing in the possibility that the art supplies will eventually make you your money back.

Okay, so that being said, I will recommend this, don't go overboard.  Don't buy EVERYTHING I suggest. You don't need it all.

Even I don't have it all, although I've used it all at some point.

Buy one or two things, see what they're like. Experiment and play with it.  Have fun.

And if you find you need one of the other things, by all means get that too. It's best to buy a thing when you know you'll use it than having it sit there collecting dust.

Don't buy ANYTHING I recommend if you know for a fact you WILL NOT use it.  That would not be an investment, it's a waste of money.  Don't do that to yourself.

Don't INTEND to use the art supplies you invest in, USE the art supplies you invest in. Otherwise, don't bother. Save your money.

So let's begin. Behold the mysterious weapons of Draw Fu:

Paper

Copy PaperCopy Paper - Believe or not regular copy paper is totally fine to use.  You know, the kind you can get an office supply store? If you don't know what to get, get this first.

Depending on your preference, you might want slightly thinker paper or thinner cheaper paper, so prices may vary.  Really, it's just a matter of taste.  This is the kind of paper you'll probably use most when you're not drawing in a sketchbook.

Paper size varies depending on purpose.  From 8.5 x 11 to 11 x 17.

The only drawback to copy paper is that it's smooth only.  If you prefer rough paper, you need to look elsewhere.

Tracing PaperTracing Paper - Tracing paper comes in very handy. Especially if you don't have a lightbox, which I will write about below.

Rarely does a drawing come out well the first time.  You usually have to draw it over and over.  Tracing paper comes in handy for doing just that.

Also, the waxy nature of tracing paper makes it ideal for shading your drawings.  On top of that, Prismacolor Pencils are erasable on tracing paper.  I'll talk a bit about those types of pencils below.

SketchBook - The best sketchbook is the kind you will draw in.  Don't buy one if you won't draw in it.

There are many kinds of sketchbooks.  From Strathmore, to Canson, to Moleskine. Each sketchbook has different types of art paper in it.

Rough paper is good for shading with a textured look.  Also it's spectacular with watercolors and gouache. Although it Sketchbookwarps so you might want to go with Watercolor paper if you're going to do finished work with those mediums.

Smooth paper takes pencil, ink, and many other mediums very well.  Smooth paper seems to be what most sketchbooks come with, because it's very versatile.

Hardcover or soft cover? That depends on your preference.  I use both.

Spiral or Bound?  Again, this is all preference.

That said, the spiral sketchbooks allows you to flip the sketchbook open in such a way that you're only dealing with one page at a time. This takes up less space when drawing and it's easier to hold when field sketching.

Sticky NoteBound sketchbooks come in handy when you lay them flat and you draw across the crease of the paper to make a much bigger drawing. They also look a tad more classy.

Sticky Notes - These kind of paper pads have a sticky side.  They come in handy when experimenting with adjustments or additions to a drawing.

If you don't like the way the hair came out on a drawing, add a sticky note on it and try again.  Very handy when you don't want to use tracing paper but you want to fix something without erasing the original drawing.

Pencils

Regular PencilRegular Pencils - You can't go wrong with a regular Number 2 pencil.  It works.  For regular line drawing, this is the pencil to have.  No need to get fancy. Pretty much every artist uses a version of a regular pencil.

That said, every manufacturer of pencils is different.  You might find you like the quality of one brand of number 2 pencil over another.

For the purposes of drawing cartoons, they're good to use for under drawing and some final line art as well.

Art Pencils - Art PencilIf you prefer variety or you want to start experimenting with adding tone, (otherwise known as shading) you might want to invest in some sort of art pencils.

The pencils are made up of graphite of differing softness.  The scale is from 9H to 9B.

"H" stands for Hard.

"B" stands for Black.

The higher the number on an "H" pencil the harder the graphite. The harder the pencil the lighter the line it will make. Basically it's saying, it has a higher content of clay in it.

The higher the number in  a "B" pencil the softer the graphite and the blacker the line quality. It has less clay so it's much more "crumbly."  These pencils get dull faster but they make much bolder lines.

HB pencils are pretty standard midway pencils.  Most Number 2 pencils are HB (Hard and Black.)

2B pencils are used most often as good versatile drawing pencil.   Although if you're very heavy handed you might want to go with an H pencil or you'll have a hard time erasing your marks if you make a mistake.

Different brands of pencils vary in quality and feel.  You might want to experiment to see which brand you like best.

That said, the hyperlinks I've provided,  link to the kind of pencils I like using most.

Besides adding tone, art pencils can also be used for under drawings (especially the H pencils), and final line art (often using B pencils).

Colored Pencils - There are two types of color pencils that are used most when drawing cartoons.  They are, Col-Erase Pencils and Prisma Color Pencils.

Col-Erase PencilCol-Erase - These pencils' unique feature are their erase-ability. When drawing cartoons, they're most commonly used for under drawing. The color used is a matter of preference.

Prismacolor Colored Pencils - Prisma Color PencilPrisma Color Pencils are a much more waxy and vibrant type of pencil. When used on tracing paper, they are erasable.  Otherwise they're very permanent.

For cartooning, black Prisma color pencils are mostly used. They come in handy for making finished line work, on regular paper or on tracing paper.

Mechanical Pencils - Mechanical PencilIf you like drawing with fine lines, mechanical pencils are the way to go.   They have the added advantage of not needing to be sharpened, nor do they get smaller as you sharpen them.  The leads also come in grades of hardness as well as different colors.

0.5 leads are good for doing clean up work with consistent lines.

0.7 leads are good for doing under drawing and preliminary sketching.

The drawback to using mechanical pencils is that, the fine nature of the line may cause you to stiffen up more than you would using pencils that get duller as you draw.  Also, it's much more difficult to get a variety of lines with them.

Erasers

Rubber EraserNot all erasers are the same.  Some are better than others. Here are the two that tend to work best when erasing artwork.

White Rubber Eraser - These erasers are the best. They tend to erase pencil art very well without smearing or ripping the paper.

Just don't hold them in your hand too much. The oils in your hand rub off on them and cause them smear your work.

Kneaded EraserKneaded Eraser - One of the most versatile erasers you can buy.  They're like erasers made out of puddy.  You can shape them anyway you want. This makes them ideal for erasing tiny spots.  Or you can roll them over a drawing to lighten up your rough line work, so you can draw a final line over it.

When they get too dirty, you just "knead" them until they're clean.

Don't hold these in your hands too much or play too much with them.  The oils in your skin ruins them.

Pen and Ink

Time to start talking about pens and ink.  Cartoons look best with black bold lines.  It makes your work look great and professional.

Below I'm going to be recommending brushes and quills.  I'm not worried at all about recommending these kind of ink tools.  When I was about 11 or 12 years old, I started using quills. A year or two later I began using brushes.

If I could start that young, I think I can recommend these things.

Dip Pens - When drawing cartoons, dip pens are some one of the best ways to go. It's difficult to get similar line work using any other types of pen.

They take some getting used to since there's a bit of maintenance required when using these pens. Which basically means, washing the pens after use, so they last longer.

They're also a tad tricky to learn to use. They only make marks when holding the pens a certain way and pulling the pen in the direction you want to make the mark.  When you get one and play with it you'll see what I mean.

There are two types of dip pens, Crow Quills , Holders and Nibs.

  • Crow Quill - QuillCrow Quills are these tiny dip pens that are usually connected to a little brown pen holder. They are great for fine detailed line work. They're also very good beginner dip pens.  This is what I used when I first started. They're inexpensive so if you mess them up You don't have to worry too much.
  • Dip PenHolders - Holders aren't actually pens, they simply hold pen nibs.  Holders are sometimes bought separately but often come packaged with nibs. The Holders are long pen shafts that you place nibs in. You can invest in only one and use it with many different nibs.
  • Nibs - There are many kinds of nibs you can buy.  They each have a purpose and create different kinds of lines.  For cartooning purposes, we will only look at two. The Gillott #170, is a nib that you can ink fine detailed lines with and get a good varied line.  The Hunt Dome Point is similar to the Gillot #170, but the nature of this nib makes it a tad more flexible to use.  Both these nibs are very useful to have.

BrushBrushes - Another standard inking tools.  Brushes give greater variety and versatility than dip pens.  They're also a tad tricker to use. They are so worth learning to use though.

The recommended brushes to buys are the Winsor Newton Series 7 brushes at size 2 and 3.  BUT these brushes can be a bit pricey. If you're just learning to use a brush find an inexpensive watercolor brush with a point at size 2 and 3.

That way you can mess them up and ruin them as you learn to use them without it getting expensive.

You might also get a slightly bigger brush if you tend to use a lot of black and want to ink large areas faster.

Inks - If you have dip pens and brushes to ink with, you need ink.  At this point, the brand doesn't matter, what matters is that it's black, waterproof and doesn't have tar.  The tar may ruin your tools. Here are some suggestions.

  • Pelikan Ink - I like it because it's a good black and it's waterproof.  Unfortunately it can be tricky to find.

  • Black Magic Ink
    - This is the brand I learned to ink with.  It's a good ink and it's pretty much everywhere.

Pelikan InkBlack India Ink

Felt tip Pens - Felt tip pens are great to ink with on the go.  They used to be the worst kind of pens to ink with because they used to fade.  Now a days many types of felt tip pens have good permanent ink that doesn't fade.

I'm going to recommend two kinds of pens. Both type of pens give only one type of line quality depending on the width of the pen.  If you don't want line variety in you inks, these are the way to go.

  • Pigma Microns - Micron PenThese pens come in a variety of different sizes from the 005 (0.20mm) to 08 (0.50mm).  I tend to use sizes 02 and 05.
  • Pitt Pens - Pitt PenThese pens are mostly brush pens, which I will write about below, but they also have Super Fine, Fine, and Medium tips, which are similar to the Microns but often work better.  They just aren't as varied as the Microns.

Brush Pens - These pens are great when you want to get the line variety of a brush without the dipping and the cleaning.  They're not as versatile as inking with a real brush but they are a good substitute in a pinch.

They're also good practice tools to get you comfortable with the line variety you can get with brushes.

  • Felt Tip - There are many kinds of felt tip brush pens. Some are better than others. They don't react like brushes and they sometimes get rough and beat up. That said, they are good beginner brushes. I don't use felt tip brush pens very often, but when I do, I like using the size B Pitt Pens .Pitt Pen
  • Synthetic Brush - These brushes are the closest thing to inking with an actual dip brush you can get.  You can even simulate some dip brush effects, to some extent, using these Pentel Pocket Brush Pentype of brushes.  The Pentel Pocket Brush Pens are very handy and versatile. They use replaceable ink  cartridges.  Although it's arguable that the Pentel Standard Brush Pen is the way to go since you can regulate the amount of ink that Pentel Brush Pencomes out by squeezing the stem of the brush.  That way you can get dry brush and other effect.  These pens are a good next step when training to use brushes.

Light Box

Light BoxWhen I was 14, I discovered, rather quickly, that having a light box was one of the most helpful tools to have for analog drawing. I made mine in my high school Woodshop class. I've been using it ever since.

A Light Box is a large or small box like object, or tablet that lights up from the inside.  The drawing surface is made of glass or transparent white plastic.

Light boxes are really handy for drawing. They allow you to basically replace tracing paper as a way to fix or finish your drawing.

With a light box you can rough out a drawing on regular paper, then put a new piece of regular paper on top, and using the light box to see through both sheets,  draw a tighter line over it.

Or you can use it draw different elements of a drawing on separate pieces of paper and then transfer them all to one piece later.

This is a HUGE deal.  If you're familiar with programs like Photoshop, this is the analog equivalent of "adding layers."  It makes reworking and adjusting your artwork, so much easier.

Also, you can flip over your drawing over your light box to see how it looks like in reverse. Very often you can see the imbalances in your drawing this way.

You can then draw rough fixes on the back of the sheet.  Once that's done, you can turn it back around, erase the bad parts of the drawing and fix the drawing based on the roughs you can see through the sheet.

I can't live without my light box.  I don't know how other artists do what they do without one.

If it's possible for you to get a light box, you should.

If you can't, stick with tracing paper.

Trouble?

Q: That's a lot of stuff.  A bit too much actually. So what should I get first?

A: Well, first you might want to try getting yourself some copy paper and/or a sketchbook.  You need something to draw on.

Then get a comfortable pencil. One you like. It can be mechanical, as long as you like using it. Also, pick up a white rubber eraser and the kneaded eraser.   You will need them.

After that, simply start drawing on the paper and sketchbook.

Pro Tip

Don't go over board.

Once you think your ready for more, start using a regular ballpoint pen to finish off your pencil drawing.  Draw a drawing with pencil first then draw over it with a ballpoint pen.

Using the kneaded eraser, erase the pencil art leaving only the ballpoint pen lines.

You're now "inking." Do this for a while until you feel comfortable.  Then experiment with other types of pens.

After that, pick something new to use. A col-erase pencil, tracing paper, etc, and experiment with those.

It's all about not going too fast and not spending too much.  Enjoy the process, explore and have fun.

 

 

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Tags: Drawing supplies, Intermediate, Lvl 1
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